Scuffed 18" Ixion II - Volvo V40 Forums
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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old 21-04-2016, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
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Scuffed 18" Ixion II

Hi guys,

Today I had an unfortunate accident with a two-corner curb and I scuffed my rim. Is there anything I can do to minimize it? As soon as it gets dirty it will become black and very visible.

Could I sand it down? Do Volvo dealers repair them?

Thanks


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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old 21-04-2016, 03:55 PM
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I did the same to a previous car twice, and they also had the diamond cut alloy.

On the first occasion I had the rim repaired professionally (fantastic job), the second time I decided to give it a go myself as it wasnt as bad as the first time, I used a Dremel with a fine sanding stone to take away the worst, then used very fine wet & dry sanding paper to get a smooth finish, a bit of patience is needed whilst sanding away, but you'll be surprised how quick an alloy rim can sands away, after the sanding I used a metal cutting/cleaning polish just to buff up a nice clean finish, then some Autoglym SRP and a wax on top to finish off.

3 years on and the rim never blistered or discoloured, but I did every now and then touch up the repair with a bit of wax just to keep it protected.

The final finish wasn't bad at all, in fact you would of needed a very critical eye to notice it, and I'd say looking at your damage it was very similar starting off.

If cant I recall what the professional repair cost, but it wasnt cheap.

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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old 21-04-2016, 05:09 PM
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Quote:
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I did the same to a previous car twice, and they also had the diamond cut alloy.

On the first occasion I had the rim repaired professionally (fantastic job), the second time I decided to give it a go myself as it wasnt as bad as the first time, I used a Dremel with a fine sanding stone to take away the worst, then used very fine wet & dry sanding paper to get a smooth finish, a bit of patience is needed whilst sanding away, but you'll be surprised how quick an alloy rim can sands away, after the sanding I used a metal cutting/cleaning polish just to buff up a nice clean finish, then some Autoglym SRP and a wax on top to finish off.

3 years on and the rim never blistered or discoloured, but I did every now and then touch up the repair with a bit of wax just to keep it protected.

The final finish wasn't bad at all, in fact you would of needed a very critical eye to notice it, and I'd say looking at your damage it was very similar starting off.

If cant I recall what the professional repair cost, but it wasnt cheap.
Did you need to put clear coat/lacquer on the wheel or do diamond cuts not have it? Or does the wax achieve the same thing?
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old 21-04-2016, 06:58 PM
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I did the same a while ago and think I posted in a thread about it. I sanded it down with some wet and dry at various grades then polished and lacquered. Seems to be holding up well and can really only be seen up close!

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old 21-04-2016, 07:13 PM
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Did you need to put clear coat/lacquer on the wheel or do diamond cuts not have it? Or does the wax achieve the same thing?
I just applied a good wax every few months over the repair.
I didn't fancy trying to apply lacquer as I felt any over spray that landed on the existing lacquer beyond the repair might start to blister, and I would end up having to sand more of the rim down to apply lacquer to all the surface.

It was a bit of a trial job to see if I could make good the damage without turning it into a big job, and it seemed to work, as I said 3 years on and no sign of pitting/blistering ect.

When I sold the car the guy that bought it traveled over 400 miles to view it, and spent an hour going all over the car, but did notice the repair.

But as Dave says you could use lacquer.

As for diamond cuts, this is done on a lathe which was done by the professional repairer when I first damaged the other alloy, the second repair (done by myself) was just done by using what I've posted above.

Why not just give it a go and if your not happy with the results then take it to be repaired professionally.

My tip would be NOT to get carried away with the sanding down, and try not to go too far outside the damage, also dont sand too deep, just try to feather it in to a smooth finish using very fine wet & dry.

I think perhaps the two scratches on the spoke will be harder to hide than the more damaged bit on the rim because its a larger flatter surface on the spoke .

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Last edited by jactac; 21-04-2016 at 07:39 PM.
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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old 21-04-2016, 11:31 PM
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The diamond cut wheels currently used by Volvo are clearcoated - I think it's actually a clear powdercoat as it's quite thick. I've had a stone hit right on the edge between the grey and cut edge, it hasn't chipped but the seal has been compromised so it's started to corrode beneath the clearcoat. It's still quite small at the moment (only about 5mm long) but I've used the clear laquer from a touch-up pen kit just to seal it to try and stop it getting worse.
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old 25-04-2016, 10:31 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, I will look into buying some lacquer, hopefully that will help. Although the scuff falls into the acceptable damage for my company, so I think won't get charged for it. Anyhow I would like to minimize it for the looks.

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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old 10-11-2016, 05:24 PM
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Rimblades

This is what I did to avoid pavement rash on my Nissan 370Z.

The product is called Rimblades and is available in many colours. It's an easy DIY job and have had them on my Z for about 2 years now.
Should you have a slight brush with a pavement, the Rimblade is damaged and replaced. So is is not only for aesthetics but serves a useful purpose.
Check out Rimblages on Google. They are made in the UK.
Hope this helps.
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