Upgrading the standard V40 stereo - Volvo V40 Forums
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post #1 of 36 (permalink) Old 20-07-2015, 09:06 AM Thread Starter
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Upgrading the standard V40 stereo

Thought I would put my build thread here as there doesn't seem to be too many people changing out the stereo. With great factory options, that's unsurprising of course. But in Australia (not sure about other countries), there's a huge disincentive to spec up a new car. If you want a new car, you have such greater bargaining power with a stock car that's on the floor, than spec'ing up a new one and then waiting 6 months + for it to arrive. Unfortunately this usually limits you to zero options, and either a black or white car!

Anyway, to cut to the chase, I would have gone the High Performance stereo, but cost and timing would have been way too big, so I'm starting to change out all the speakers, add in an amp, install a sub, and add some sound deadening.

Here's the component list, although things could change as the project progresses:

Focal PS 165F Flax 6.5" component speakers
Alpine PDX-V9 5-channel amp
Seas SW250 10" sub
Dynamat Xtreme door and trunk kits
Alpine hi/low converter
4-gauge wiring kit

I've nearly finished the box. It's a 25 litre sealed box 595mm wide. I'll attach it in the centre/rear to the child restraint hooks with bungee cords. I've made it that size so that if I need to lay a load flat along the floor, it will also fit sideways in the boot. Or I can remove it completely when I need my space back.

I'm interested to see if the Dynamat helps. The car is already very quiet in terms of road noise, so not expecting a night and day difference, but worth trying in any case.
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post #2 of 36 (permalink) Old 20-07-2015, 09:26 AM
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Will be following this thread with interest.
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post #3 of 36 (permalink) Old 20-07-2015, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by saltyseadog View Post
Will be following this thread with interest.
Me too !

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post #4 of 36 (permalink) Old 21-07-2015, 01:26 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry about the iPhone pics! Just finished all the cutouts I needed, so glued and screwed tonight. Used Max Bond for adhesion, should be set this time tomorrow. Got the carpet and fibrefill today so hopefully attack the carpeting tomorrow. Just need to chamfer the edges to straighten things out before I carpet it.

Sourced some bungee straps that have metal plates at each end drilled out. One end will be bolted to the sub box, the other I attached to some spring-loaded clips so I can remove completely if I need.
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post #5 of 36 (permalink) Old 22-07-2015, 05:17 AM Thread Starter
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Edges chamfered, project inspector tastes it and says 'ready to carpet!'
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post #6 of 36 (permalink) Old 22-07-2015, 08:01 AM
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Hello!

Nice job! I think that your installation is going to be great! Don't forget to post pics!

I see that you have some knowledge in car audio, could you help me?
Do you know how I can add a subwoofer to a Premium Sound from Harman Kardon?
I really want to add more low frequency power but I don't know which equipment I need and where to connect a subwoofer or amp + subwoofer of hi/low converter + amp + subwoofer.
I looked everywhere for information, but nothing is very clear.

Help me please
Thank in advance!

Last edited by FuFu; 22-07-2015 at 05:54 PM.
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post #7 of 36 (permalink) Old 22-07-2015, 10:33 AM Thread Starter
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No problems, happy to help.

Might be slightly different on the High Performance stereo, but with mine there's an amp/dsp under the passenger seat. Someone on this forum kindly identified the pinouts we need to use to pull a speaker-level signal. It's the green connector here, and the wiring is as follows:

1(Grey/Black) & 9(Green/Black) - Left Front
2(Grey) & 10(Green) - Centre Front
3(Yellow/Black) & 11(Violet/Black) - Right Front
4(Grey/Red) & 12(Green/Red) - Left Rear
5(Yellow/Red) & 13(Violet/Red) - Right Rear

For a sub amp, you'll need a left and right signal so you would use #1 and #3 here.

As you've eluded to, you'll either need a mono amp with high level input, or a mono amp plus a LOC (line-out converter). The most difficult part you'll find is the wiring of this. If you're not confident, I'd have a shop do it. Should only be 2 hours' labour. I'm installing mine in the spare wheel cavity to the front/left. It will sit just above the spare tyre, so will still have access. I'm running a 4-gauge wire from the +ve battery terminal, into a fuse, then into the front passenger footwell. There's a nice large grommet there you can fit it through. From there, running it down the side of the car under the carpet and into the boot. From the amp you simply run a short ground cable to the chassis. I'm drilling a new hole to do this, will sand the chassis, then seal it top and bottom (i.e. under the car) with bitumen to ensure it's completely waterproof and won't corrode.

I've gone with a 10" sub because an 8" probably isn't significantly different to the stock system (let alone your High Performance). My enclosure pictured is 25 litres, but you can get slimline 10" subs that only require maybe 15 litres.

So you'll need sub in a box, mono sub amp (preferably Class D for this), wiring kit, and potentially a high/low converter. Let me know if you need any more help!

Oh one thing, I'm assuming that the standard head unit doesn't limit low frequencies to the main speakers (to protect them). It may for example have a high pass filter set to maybe 45Hz. If it does, then the sub isn't going to receive frequencies lower than this. If this happens (fingers crossed it doesn't) then there are only two options. Firstly use an LOC that restores bass (e.g. Audio Control LC2i), or go for an external DSP. I'll let you know when I get to this stage but am fairly confident we'll be ok. Good luck!
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post #8 of 36 (permalink) Old 22-07-2015, 01:11 PM
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Thank you for your prompt response!

It's not very easy...
What do you think about an Infinity BassLink? http://www.infinityspeakers.com/subw...oofers#start=1
Do you think it's possible to use that?
The power for equipment is not clear for me, I did not understand where the power suplly must be connected.

Thank you!
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post #9 of 36 (permalink) Old 22-07-2015, 02:07 PM
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Ho! May be the JBL GT BassPro12 is better!

http://fr.jbl.com/tl_files/catalog//...INAL%20ART.pdf

On this PDF is more clear!

I wrote to Harman Kardon about adding a subwoofer and they answered me that I can look on the JBL siteweb for a solution.

My project is to add this subwoofer, but I want to connect it with connectors, in this way if I need to transport something big I can remove it easily. What do you think?
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post #10 of 36 (permalink) Old 22-07-2015, 02:09 PM Thread Starter
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That looks pretty decent. Frequency response is good down to 20Hz which is great. One other alternative around the same price is the Rockford Fosgate one. Its wedge shape with the woofer on the flat side is similar to the one I designed for the car, so will use the boot space a little better in the V40.

For power, what I mean is you can't just wire it into the existing car power loom or a spare 12v outlet. They can't supply enough current. You need to connect it all the way to the battery terminal itself. For that powered sub, you would want to run an 8 gauge wiring kit. You'll need the positive side to run from the positive terminal of your car battery, into a fuse holder with a fuse value dictated by the amp you choose (or amp/sub you choose). Then it runs into your amplified sub. The negative needs to be also 8 gauge, and runs from the powered sub, to the nearest point you can find on the chassis of the car. Ie no need to run it back to the battery because your entire chassis runs the ground of your electrical system. The other thing you're going to need is a trigger wire, which is something that tells the sub to turn on (otherwise you'll kill your battery). You can decide where to run this from. It can be from the fusebox, or something that maybe just turns on when the car does (e.g. mine has a 12v outlet in the boot, so you could take it from there).

The Infinity has a speaker level input so you won't need an LOC which is good. So just run a set of 4 wires from the plug I showed you (you'll need to splice it) to the sub.

Fairly complex but will be well worth the effort.

MY15 V40 T5 R-Design Ice White, Polestar, Heated Seats. Audio upgrade and window tint TBC.
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