How To; Add the missing RHS boot light - Volvo V40 Forums
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post #1 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-11-2015, 06:49 PM Thread Starter
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How To; Add the missing RHS boot light

This is a follow-on from my posts in the 'MY16 Missing Items' thread about how the right hand side boot courtesy light has gone missing from the 'Additional Lighting' option in MY16.

My car is a MY13 and I haven't got the 'Additional Lighting' option, but a) I've been doing some work behind the cargo area trim (possibly coming to my old 'DAB Retrofit' thread soon), and b) I've got the floor harness from another car (that also didn't have the 'Additional Lighting' option), so i've got a good length of wiring thats the right colours and has the correct plug on one end, so I thought I'd have a look into developing a 'Plug and Play' solution to put it back without having to splice into the existing wiring (and potentially causing warranty issues).

The first thing to look at was the wiring diagram for the cargo area lighting on my car:

It shows 2 optional paths (shown as dotted lines) for the White/Blue (negative) wire back to the CEM - a single wire from the LHS light for cars without Additional Lighting, or 3 wires connected together at branching point 83/5061 to single wire to the CEM for cars that have the option. The same is true for the Brown/Green (positive) wires, which are joined together at branching point 83/5066_M for cars with the option (the wiring is very similar for later cars, except that the RHS light has now disappeared).

The main thing this tells us is that the cargo area Addtional Lighting is all driven from the same outputs on the CEM, so we should be able to add the second light my making a simple Y cable that attaches to the existing LHS light's connector.
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post #2 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-11-2015, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
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In the 'Missing Items' thread I originally suggested buying the connector ant terminals from Volvo (the connector is Volvo part no. 30656844 and the repair terminals are part no.30656669) or going to a breakers and getting the connector with a length of wiring attached from another Volvo.

I then did some research and found who manufactures the connectors. They are made by JAE and both the connectors and contacts are available to the public from the likes of RS and Mouser, and it's probably cheaper and easier to buy from then than it would be from a Volvo dealer or breakers.:

The male connector is 56p from RS as part no. 727-5771:
The contacts for the male connector (you need 2) are IL-AG5-PC1-5000 which are £1.80 for a pack of 50 from RS as their part no. 690-9896:

The Female connector that connects to the LED lamp unit is 56p from RS as part no. 727-5775: You will need 2 of these.
The contacts (you need 2 for each connector, so 4 in total) are IL-AG5-C1-7500, £1.45 for a pack of 50 as RS part code 690-9887:

For Mouser, it's best to search for the JAE part numbers on their site to find them. They have the advantage that the contacts can be ordered in multiples of 1 instead of 50.

You will also need a decent quality crimp tool. It has to be the type that can do uninsulated terminals with strain relief tangs, not the type used for those red./blue/yellow insulated crimp terminals. You want something with 'steps' in the jaws, like this:

The steps' crimp the 2 sections of the terminal at once - the lower one crimps the conductor and the higher one crimps the strain relief tangs.

As well as the connectors, you are goin gto need some wire. It doesn't need to be the same colour as the factory wiring, but you do need 2 separate colours as we are dealing with a polarised component. Unlike bulbs, LEDs only work with the current flowing in one direction (remember the 'D' means diode), and connecting them in reverse will usually result in damage.

The factory cable spec appears to be:
0.35mm Thin Wall Cable
Cross Sectional Area: 0.35mm²
Stranding: 12 x 0.2mm²
Outside Diameter: 1.3mm
Nominal Current Rating: 7.0 Amps
This is thin-wall PVC insulated cable. The 1.3mm OD is the smallest 'thin wall' size used on cars and isn't the easiest to get hold of, but on the Male connector where 2 cables have to be crimped into a single contact it's just at the limit that the JAE crimp contacts will take. You will need 2 x 3 metre lengths of different colours.

The final thing you will need is some loom wrapping tape. I use fibre tape (sometimes called TESA tape after the leading manufacturer) but you could use PVC loom tape (like insulating tape tape, but thinner and less adhesive) too. I wouldn't use insulating tape, as it's too thick and will make the wrapped wiring hard to route and form to the existing loom in the car..
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post #3 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-11-2015, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
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Right, once you have got all he materials, the first thing to do is to make up the sections of cable with the female ends. Take your 2 3 metres lengths of cable and cut about 20cm/8" off each one. These will be for the 'short' end to replace the existing LHS connection. The remaining 2.5m sections will be for the 'long' end to go over the RHS.

Crimp a socket contact onto the end of each of the pieces of wire and assemble them into the female connectors. They can only go in one way. Depending on your crimp tool, the terminal may have been flattened too much to fit into the slot in the housing. If this is the case, you will need to gently squeeze it horizontally with a pair of needle nose pliers until it fits. The colour of wire you picked for negative should go into the centre slot of the housing (position 2) , The positive wire should go into the left slot (position 1) when looked at from above with the retaining 'hatch' open. Check against the existing connector in your car if you aren't sure, as it's not easy to get the terminals out again if you get it wrong (ask me how I know...).

Once both terminals are in, you can then click the retaining hatch closed. You can then wrap the 2 sections of wire in the wrapping tape. I'd suggest wrapping about 15cm of the 'short' end and about 2.25m on the 'long' end. You may need to wrap a bit more or unwrap some once the wiring is in the car.
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Last edited by buzby; 07-11-2015 at 11:39 PM.
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post #4 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-11-2015, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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Now onto the scary bit - taking your car apart. The first thing to do is familiarise yourself with how to dismantle the trim in the cargo compartment. Look at the instructions for installing Park Assist:
Steps 63 to 78 cover how to get as far as removing the carpet side trim on the RHS (the LHS is the same, but a mirror image). Reassembly is the reversal of the dismantling instructions.

You will need a T27 Torx screwdriver to remove the 2 screws in the boot sill cover, and it suggests you need a trim tool to remove the panels (though I've done it enough times that I can do it all by hand now). Just go slowly and everything should come apart intact.

Once the trim is all out and your house looks like a breakers yard, you can start putting your new wiring in. Start on the RHS with your 'long' cable:

Start about a 15cm from the connector and start tie wrapping your wiring to the existing harness (I've wrongly labelled the first tie wrap as the last one in the picture). You want the first tie wrap to be just about level with the edge of the pressing you can see at the top centre of the picture.

Once you cet to the bottom, you want to thread your wire under the plastic boot tidy/tray thing and follow the existing loom across the rear crossmember. It's tricky to tie wrap along this run as you caa't really see what you are doing, but with a bit of patience it's doable:

When you get to the LHS, thread your wire under the other end of the plastic boot tray and follow the loom up to the D-pillar, tie wrapping as you go:

Your last tie wrap will be just below the existing light connection. Leave about 15-20cm of wire free to go into the Male connector.
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Last edited by buzby; 07-11-2015 at 11:36 PM.
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post #5 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-11-2015, 09:11 PM Thread Starter
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Now the 'long' side is in place, you can now joint both ends together in the crimp contacts of the male terminal. However, if you couldn't get hold of the 0.35mm thinwall cable and had to get something thicker, you could solder splice them together a couple of inches from the male connector. Just make sure you use some heatshrink sleeving on the joints to insulate them properly.

If you are going to use the crimp method, work out where you are going to mount the male connector and eyeball how long each of the ends is going to be. I was lucky enough to find an undamaged connector clip on my scrap harness that fits in the slot on the back of the connector and pushes into the spare hole on the bracket under the white antenna cable joint on the picture above. You could probably tie wrap the connector to that hole too.

The way I mounted the male connector was pointing towards the rear of the car, so the existing female connector plugs into it in the same direction as it would on the light unit.

After crimping the 2 ends together and assembling the male plug (it goes together in the same way as the female - remember to get the pins in the right place though!), I ended up with this:
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Last edited by buzby; 07-11-2015 at 11:41 PM.
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post #6 of 37 (permalink) Old 07-11-2015, 09:38 PM Thread Starter
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Almost there now, but there's one thing i've forgotten - you need another light unit! In my car, the existing lamp unit was Volvo part no. 1286317.

I did a search for that and found a second hand one (from a 2011 XC70) in the Netherlands for 3.50 euros.

(the black plastic surround is from the XC70 and isn't needed).

Even with the 10 euros shipping it was still cheaper than any I found in the UK. Some very early cars may have used a different part number, but I think 1286317 has superceded the early part (which was 9123680).

Once the cabling had been secured to the bracket I then plugged the lamp unit in and....nothing! However, the boot lights are on a timer and had timed out, so I closed and opened it again and it worked perfectly:

I tried it with them pluggedin one at a time first, and then both together and it worked as it's supposed to, so it was time to put it all back together, reversing the disassembly instructions in the link above.
When you are putting it back together, here's a couple of hints.

  • When putting the side carpet trims back on, remember to pull your new light connections over into the boot side - otherwise you will put it all together and then have to take it apart again to get them out.
  • When putting the D-pillar trims back in place, there are 2 long locating pegs, one each next to the upper and rear clips. Use these to help you get it in position before securing it by hitting the clip positions with the side of your fist. The front part that hooks round the upper C-pillar trim should snap in as you do this.
  • The lower C-pillar trim at the side of the rear seat can be tricky to get in place properly. I found it easiest to get the edge next to the door seal in first (it clips into the D-pillar trim at the top and the sill trim at the bottom) and then bang the 3 metal spring clips in with your hand. You have to pull the edge of the door seal over it as you go too.

Last edited by buzby; 07-11-2015 at 11:46 PM.
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post #7 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-11-2015, 10:33 AM
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Fantastic Buzby!
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post #8 of 37 (permalink) Old 08-11-2015, 04:14 PM
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Great job!!!

Congratulations !!
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post #9 of 37 (permalink) Old 22-11-2015, 07:27 PM
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Can you show how it looks in the car now?

Last edited by john_goo; 23-11-2015 at 08:01 PM.
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post #10 of 37 (permalink) Old 22-11-2015, 11:41 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by john_goo View Post
Can you show how it looks in the car now?
I can't unfortunately - I live on a main road and there's a huge HPS street light right outside my house, so I can't really get a shot of the boot lit up by just the courtesy lights when it's dark.

If your car has the single light on the left-hand side of the boot, then it looks the same as that except with the same amount of light on both sides.
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