Hardwiring Dashcam (Power Sources) - Volvo V40 Forums
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post #1 of 36 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 11:53 AM Thread Starter
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Hardwiring Dashcam (Power Sources)

Hi.

I want to fit a dashcam, but as a hater of trailing leads I want to hardwire it if possible.

Does anyone know if there is a suitable point in the electronics pod behind the rearview mirror and if its easy to get too.

(Its the larger pod with all the gubbins for the DSP stuff etc).

Picture below. Am hoping I can pull power from in here if anyone has tried it I would be really grateful for any info.

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post #2 of 36 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 12:48 PM
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this might give you an idea


About installation of Power Magic Pro for dashcam.
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post #3 of 36 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 07:07 PM
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Hopefully someone with a bit more knowledge will pop along but I understand that there may be a spare live cable in there for the auto-dimming mirror if you don't already have one. You can find more detail here.

The stuff around your mirror looks slightly different to mine but my car is 2013, so that may explain why.

I'd considered this as a power source for my dashcam install but went with another method as I had to route a cable to the rear camera anyway, plus I was a bit wary of messing about with any safety related stuff!
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post #4 of 36 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 07:14 PM
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Search the forum - there are posts about the wiring under there for putting in a dashcam. Google is your friend..
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post #5 of 36 (permalink) Old 03-02-2016, 08:44 PM
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I detailed the specs and connector for the Auto-Dimming Rear View Mirror power feed here:
Auto Dimming Rear view mirror retro fit ???
As mentioned in that thread, it's on a shared 5A fuse with the Rain Sensor Module so you need to be very careful about what the current rating of the camera is. Also, it's a switched live feed, so the camera would be powered off when the ignition is switched off.

If you want a constant live feed, you are better off going the route Abby606 did in the thread he linked to and using a piggyback fuse feed from one of the Central Electronic Module fuse positions. I think he did run into a problem though that when the camera was left on constantly it was draining the battery enough for the Start/Stop system to be disabled and I think he ended up changing it's power feed..
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post #6 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-02-2016, 07:28 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buzby View Post
I detailed the specs and connector for the Auto-Dimming Rear View Mirror power feed here:
Auto Dimming Rear view mirror retro fit ???
As mentioned in that thread, it's on a shared 5A fuse with the Rain Sensor Module so you need to be very careful about what the current rating of the camera is. Also, it's a switched live feed, so the camera would be powered off when the ignition is switched off.

If you want a constant live feed, you are better off going the route Abby606 did in the thread he linked to and using a piggyback fuse feed from one of the Central Electronic Module fuse positions. I think he did run into a problem though that when the camera was left on constantly it was draining the battery enough for the Start/Stop system to be disabled and I think he ended up changing it's power feed..

Many thanks that sounds exactly what I am looking for.

If the load is too great I will look to running back to the fuse box as suggest d by others

Thanks all for the great and helpful info
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post #7 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-02-2016, 08:19 PM
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If you think your dash cam is going to use more than 5amps, you are using the incorrect camera..




Do you plan on using one of these? haha

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post #8 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-02-2016, 10:17 PM
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If you think your dash cam is going to use more than 5amps, you are using the incorrect camera..

It's a 5Amp shared fuse - it powers the rain sensor and the Auto-Dimming mirror (which is probably drawing the least power of the 2 units, as it's basically an LCD panel with a small controller). Given Volvo don't publish the power consumption/current draw of each of these components I'm merely suggesting that care is taken when connecting anything to the power feed from this shared fuse.

Given that an add-on power management module is available to prevent cameras flattening the battery when in 'parked' mode (Power Magic Pro) and that Abby606's camera drew enough current from the battery overnight to cause the Stop/Start system to be disabled then it suggests the current draw of these cameras is not insignificant. A bit of Googling suggests the Blackvue camera draws 0.32A (even when in 'parking' mode) which is not insignificant, and I suspect will be considerably more than the Auto-Dimming mirror (it only takes a few mA to make an LCD turn black).

Last edited by buzby; 04-02-2016 at 10:24 PM.
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post #9 of 36 (permalink) Old 02-03-2016, 12:26 PM Thread Starter
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Well I finally finished hard wiring my Dashcam.

First let me say I am not really happy with my current camera, I am going to replace it with something smaller like the 0608 Mini.

My Current Transcend is just a bit bulky and as I cant hide it behind the mirror due to the large electronics binnacle it sits too low down in the screen for my liking

So my options are to find some sort of mount that will attach to the binnacle and move the camera up or go for a smaller unit

Anyway just to confirm I did not bother with the wiring behind the mirror I took the feed back to the fusebox below the glovebox and spur fused into that on an ignition switched feed.

But very simple to install and very easy to hide the wiring in the headlining and the rubber door seals.








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post #10 of 36 (permalink) Old 03-03-2016, 09:31 AM
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I too now have a hard-wired dash cam. I bought a Nextbase 101 from Halfords for 44 (includes case & 8GB SD card), and paid another 30 to have it fitted yesterday. Their guy took 45 minutes to do a very professional & neat installation. They will, however, only fit units purchased from Halfords.

The camera is pretty basic (i.e no GPS etc) but nonetheless does what I want at a very competitive price......
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