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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2023 V40 D3 manual and it is a wonderful car. However, due to COVID-19 I haven't been driving very often and was only driving once a week or every other week for around 20 mins. Before lockdown, I was driving four or five times a week to work with a 20-mile commute each way on the motorway. About a month into lockdown, my car wouldn't start after it was sat on my drive for 2 weeks. I figured this was just a low battery (battery was reading 11.6v) and just jump-started the car and went for a 1-hour drive. This brought the battery up to 12.4v, but I kept an eye on it and it seemed to drop by 0.3v each day. I had a new battery installed in November (from Halfords) and decided to bring to Halfords garage and they confirm the battery and alternator were OK.

When Volvo re-opened, I booked the car in for a check and they confirm the battery/ alternator was OK, but there was a parasitic drain. They found that the battery drain was 3amps and isolated the issues to the IAM and IAC fuse which was staying awake. The fuse was replaced and they thought that solved the issue (the current drain was in the region of 0.3amps after replacing the fuse) Although the car battery was dead when I collected the car. I took the car on a 1hr drive on 7th June, and the car battery was dead the following week (13th June).

Is 0.3amps a reasonable current drain? Or what else could be the issue? I recall the stop/ start has not worked for quite a while. This worked for about a week when I replaced the battery, but has always shown as unavailable since then. Could the second battery be the issue and causing the main battery to drain overnight?
 

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Try a solar battery charger. I have the same D3 and my AA 2.4w solar panel has worked fine maintaining the battery charge.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, @hullu . I have thought of it, but I would rather figure out what's going on with it in the first instance. I've previously had the car sat for several weeks without any issues, so I would prefer to get it sorted just for peace of mind.
 

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Thanks, @hullu . I have thought of it, but I would rather figure out what's going on with it in the first instance. I've previously had the car sat for several weeks without any issues, so I would prefer to get it sorted just for peace of mind.
There is always a small drain with the alarm , can't say what that draws though.
If not could it be rodent damage to the loom? They can chew wiring on dormant cars, any tell-tale droppings about?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
There is always a small drain with the alarm , can't say what that draws though.
If not could it be rodent damage to the loom? They can chew wiring on dormant cars, any tell-tale droppings about?
I've read that cars typically draw 30-80mA when off, but know idea what the draw on a V40 is. No evidence of any droppings or chewed wires. All electrics still work.
 

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No dash cams or anything daft like that?


When you changed the battery did you reset the BMS (Battery Monitoring System)?
This is essential for the BMS to adapt to the new battery.

Can be done with a combination of pressing buttons in order on the dash if this hasn't been done. It is also fine to do at anytime I believe. It triggers the BMS to reset and condition the battery.



Instructions below including a video of the sequence, you know you've done it right in the battery LED in the dash flashes a few times after the last button press.



16999
 

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Discussion Starter #7
No dash cams or anything daft like that?


When you changed the battery did you reset the BMS (Battery Monitoring System)?
This is essential for the BMS to adapt to the new battery.

Can be done with a combination of pressing buttons in order on the dash if this hasn't been done. It is also fine to do at anytime I believe. It triggers the BMS to reset and condition the battery.



Instructions below including a video of the sequence, you know you've done it right in the battery LED in the dash flashes a few times after the last button press.



View attachment 16999
Thanks chiptivo.

I installed a dashcam in April 2019, but since I've been having the battery issues I removed the dashcam - so this hasn't been connected for around 2 months now. Volvo said they reset the battery systems to tell the car a new battery was installed (apparently Halfords didn't do this). I assume the BMS counter reset is the same?

How long would I need to drive a car to fully charge the battery? Or could the start/stop battery be causing the issues?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So tried starting the car earlier today and there was not enough charge to start the car. The battery voltage was 11.7. After my drive on Sunday 14th June it was 12.1v - which was on the low side, but quite a significant drop in two days. I am guessing that there is still a parastic drain and the current draw test was not done properly at the Volvo garage.
 

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The device that drops the power for your dashcam, was this connected directly to 12v and has it been removed??

Must be so frustrating.

Potential for the 2nd supplementary battery being duff and "sucking" the charge/discharging from the new one? Try disconnecting that one for a bit?



Changing the fuses in your first post would make no difference.
It could be a stuck relay which is keeping a circuit in your car energised and zapping your battery. Maybe they meant that?
 

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12.1v is only 30% of the capacity (at 20c). In my experience that would be about the point for a non start. 11.7 is under 5% and dead.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The device that drops the power for your dashcam, was this connected directly to 12v and has it been removed??

Must be so frustrating.

Potential for the 2nd supplementary battery being duff and "sucking" the charge/discharging from the new one? Try disconnecting that one for a bit?
The dashcam was connected to the fusebox under the glovebox using the piggy back fuses and a parking mode kit, although I removed it all when I started having the battery issues.

How can I disconnect the second battery?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
12.1v is only 30% of the capacity (at 20c). In my experience that would be about the point for a non start. 11.7 is under 5% and dead.
Yup, only managed to get to 12.1v after a 1 hour drive (I think it was 11.5v before the drive). How long will I need to drive to fully charge it? 12.6v is fully charged I think? About 4 weeks ago I went for nealy a 2 hour drive and only reached 12.4v.
 

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My start stop battery was slightly twisted on the top of it when I removed it after 3 years and new ones are only covered for 1 year from factory so as you changed tha main battery I would change the start stop.make sure that the car is locked as well as it will drain power as they don’t go into sleep mode without it.
 

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Yup, only managed to get to 12.1v after a 1 hour drive (I think it was 11.5v before the drive). How long will I need to drive to fully charge it? 12.6v is fully charged I think? About 4 weeks ago I went for nealy a 2 hour drive and only reached 12.4v.
12.65v at 20c is 100% (12.60 is 93%). The amount of time is variable because the alternator is trying to protect the system from overload. Typically it will charge heavily up to about 50% then back off. Charging off the vehicle on a trickle charger will give you about 50% over 8 hours.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
12.65v at 20c is 100% (12.60 is 93%). The amount of time is variable because the alternator is trying to protect the system from overload. Typically it will charge heavily up to about 50% then back off. Charging off the vehicle on a trickle charger will give you about 50% over 8 hours.
So I jump started the car again, it was at 11v. Went for a 1 hr 45 min and covered 75miles. Battery was at 12.15v at the end of it. Unfortunately I live in a flat so setting up a charger overnight will be difficult.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Quite easy to find cause
Parasitic Drain
If battery has been flattened so many times it will be damaged and a new on his required again.
I suspect the Volvo garage didn't perform the parasitic drain properly. I'll see if I can do this, although how can I disable the car alarm? Presumably, this will go off when to start pulling out the fuses in the cabin.
 

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Infotainment screen dead and no parking sensors, BLIS, etc
Have you checked the above post on the forum it may help .....
 

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Infotainment screen dead and no parking sensors, BLIS, etc
Have you checked the above post on the forum it may help .....
Hi Zelda, I saw this earlier today - seems like there are a lot of similarities.

Interestingly, when I was investigating my issue further I noticed the trim around the instrument cluster (speedo, rev meter, etc.) was loose, so I suspect the Volvo garage were looking at something there. I then did a voltage drop test and noticed the fuse which powers the instrument cluster was drawing 0.1A when the car is off. I have since taken out the fuse and monitoring the battery.
 

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That’s all very technical for me lol ..... Just didn’t know if you noticed the post ..... my dealer although by no means my nearest is in Newbury and find them excellent I’m fault finding John is very knowledge able if you have no joy might be worth a call
 
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