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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My Volvo V40 D2, MY2013 ended up with cooling issues while on holliday this summer, due to High preassure build-up in the cooling system. The cause? Cracked block, damaged cylinderhead and headgasket..
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No engine insurance, so this will be WAAAAY to expensive to get sorted out at the dealer. Best offer i got was around NOK 37.000 (£3147) just for removing bad engine, and install a new engine wich I also would have to source and buy myself. Only had this car for about 1.5 years, 102.000km on the clock, so not quite willing to give it up yet.

So here goes project DIY engine swap.. hope it will be successfull.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
Got hands on a used D4162T engine from a MY2014 collision damaged Volvo V40 Cross Country. The car was only two years old when it crashed back in 2016, and had only 25000km on the clock. The Cross Country had an automatic transmission, mine is a MT, otherwise its seems to be the same engine (D4162T) It's a bit of a gamble with an used engine sitting on a shelf for 4 years, but at least it have been stored dry indoors, and rotates easily (not seized/stuck) The used engine was stripped for alternator, AC compressor, transmission and catalytic converter. But the Diesel injection nozzles is untouched. Engine cost me NOK 19.000 (£1616)

The plan:
  • Jank out bad engine from my car
  • Install new timingbelt kit on new engine because been sitting for 4 years
  • Install new Clutch disk/clutch housing, and replace clutch release bearing
  • Move over Flywheel and transmission to new engine
  • Move over the rest of missing components on new engine (Turbo, Catalytic converter, generator, AC compressor etc etc)
  • Will be using the original enginecontrollerbox from bad engine, not sure sure yet if cable harness is the same between MT and AT..anyone knows?
  • Will probably get issues with the nozzles in new engine not beeing correct coded into old engine controller...?
If anyone have tried this before, I would appriciate any tips and info about problems I could (and probably will) run into! :)(y)


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Good luck, this could be a really helpful topic for future V40 owners
 
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Thanks! :)(y) Whats a man gonna do..Gotta give it a try ;) Engine out by now, have ordered new parts for for the new engine. Hopefully arrives here tomorow so I can put the transmission backonto the engine.
Good luck . Unfortunately it is almost sure that after 80000-100000km the D2 engine (from PSA) has these serious problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well I hope that the new used engine with 25.000km doesn't end up with cracked block also when it reaches 80.000-100.000km. During this proccess with engine swap I've been talking to various Volvo mechanics, and this case with cracked block is not that common if coolant and service is maintaned propertly. Sure they probably wouldn't admit it if this actually is common.. I bought the car second hand, and it had a bit scetchy service history.

On my car when this happend, I got the warning in display "high engine temperature - reduce speed", coolant level was normal upon this point. It build so much preassure in the cooling system that it threw out coolant from the expansion tank. At the shop they preassure tested the coolant system, and it did not leak when engine cold. But as soon as the engine temp got hot it preassurized the coolant system again, and disrupted the coolant circulation. So crack in block probably leaked when engine hot, and almost sealed when cold/driving short trips.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Allright, so the new engine parts arrived yesterday. The flywheel attached to the new engine was from an Automatic Transmission, and is not compatible with an Manual Transmission. Flywheel came off easy, 6 bolts. MT Flywheel from the blown engine is a direct match. Cleaned it and bolted on new engine. Got the new clutchdisk and clutchhousing installed, and the new hydraulic clutch relese bearing installed in the transmission. Also got the new timing belt installed, with new tensioner and guidewheels. New timingbelt on this engine is actually the easiest installation I have done compared to others I've been replacing (y) This youtube video is very helpfull:
It explains the steps in general for various PSA-engines, text is in Norwegian, but pictures and steps is exact for Volvo D4162T engine. Cable harness on new engine is the same as on the blown engine, EXCEPT for 1 quite large round connector in the area around the transmission. I guess this have been connected to the AT wich was stripped from the engine. So i swapped the old cable harness from blown engine over to the new engine.

Todays to-do list is joining the transmission with the engine, and get it lifted back into the car. Then install all the external components, maybe testfire it if time.


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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Another update - IT'S ALIVE!!
Engine went back into the car on Saturday, was a bit more fiddly to get it back in and possitioned correctly compared to taking the busted engine out :p When bolted in place it took the rest of the evening to get everything mounted back in place and connected. Didn't swap over the bracket for the support bearing on the right hand driveshaft that came with the new motor, they looked the same, but when trying to get the driveshaft back in I noticed the bracket on the new engine (previously driven with an automatic transmission) was a different height, this could ofcourse be because the donor car was a V40 Cross Country, and mine is a V40 R-design, wich has a 20mm lower ride-height than the normal V40, so had to swap this over too.

So for a complete overview whats different between a D4162T with an manual transmission, and a D4162T with a automatic transmission:

1) The flywheel (AT has a slim "single mass" flywheel with no "friciton-track" for a clutch disc, MT has a dual mass flywheel with "friction-track" for the clutch disc)
2) The cable harness (AT harness has a round multi-pin connector going to the transmission, MT has 2 single small connectors)
3) The bracket bolted onto the engineblock wich holds the support bearing for the right hand drive shaft is different between the MT and the AT, or mybe the difference is between rideheights between the Cross Country and the R-design V40 (AT/CC bracket is higher, MT/R-design bracket is lower)

Got everything carefully back in place, every single bolt carefully tightened at specific Newtonmeter instructions from Volvo Vida. Bleeded the Clutch hydraulic, Vacumed the cooling system, -no leaks! (y) Filled coolant (4L), filled transmission oil, and filled motoroil. First motor oil going in was a cheap no-name oil, but with the right viscosity (0W-30, 3.9 Litre). Plan was to "flush" the engine with this by running the engine up to normal operating temp, then drain it, change oil filter, and fill up again with good quality oil. This mainly because the engine had been sitting on a shelf for 4 years, and if there was any junk in the system, get it flushed out.

Got information from my Volvo mechanic that since I were using the original engine controller, but connected to the new diesel nozzles in the new motor, I probably will get it to fire, but with an uneven idle, because of the nozzles not beeing programmed into the brain, I also were told that the diesel lines probably would need bleeding to even get it to fire at all. So late last night, when the moment for first start attempt finally arrived, I did not have much expectations, but to my supprice it fired up at the first push of the startbutton, and runs smooth both at idle and at revs! No issues at all! o_O:giggle: Took it out for a gentle test-drive, and all is good! 😎

Back to the garage, flushed out engine oil, changed oil-filter and re-filled with quality motoroil. During the weekend have driven the car about 150km, and everything is perfect, there is noticeable more torque and power from the new engine compared to the original, so something have definitely not been right with the old engine for a long time..

I have som final questions mailed to my volvo mechanic, and Im waiting a reply.
1) Asked If its still recomended to get the new nozzle numbers programmed into the controller, even though it runs perfect.
2) Asked what is their practice regarding level of transmission fluid, since Volvo Vida clearly states that the B6 manual transmission should be filled with 1.58L of transmission fluid, but it does not say anything about to fill the transmission all the way up until it drips oil out from the highest filling-hole (when Car sits level). I therefore stopped filling when i had put about 1.7 Litre in, and it still did not came dripping out the fill-hole. So maybe I have 1dl too much put in now.

Will be posting an update here when I get a reply 🙂


A pic of the new motor with the used transmission bolted onto it, right before we lifted it back in.
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This is a pic of the support-bearing brackets i mentioned, they are different between AT and MT, or maybe the difference lies between the Cross Country and the R-design edition.. (Left is MT/R-design bracket, Right is AT/CC bracket)
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
My mechanic at local Volvo dealer replied to my mail today, -helpfull guy :) Congratulated me with new engine up and running :)
He thinks the same as me regarding diesel nozzles programming, that If the engine runs fine both at idle and power now, there probably isn't nessecary to program the new nozzles (in the new engine) into the original ECU, their values is probably pretty close to the original nozzles since it runs so well, so can leave it be for now. Instead we can take a look at it the next time car goes in for a MOT/service etc.

When it comes to the right level of transmission fluid on the B6 manual transmission, this is their practice at the shop:
Fill transmissionfluid into the top hole, all the way until it starts dripping out. Then suck out 0.7 L fluid, this would give the right level in the gearbox approx. 1.58L which is stated in Volvo Vida (y)

Car still runs fine, but noticed a little exhaust leak between the turbo and the catalytic converter (not visual smoke, but smells a little exhaust if you put your nose close to the turbo when engine running, so will be replacing the "half-circle" clamp that holds the to ends together with a new one. Probably also need to fine-adjust the position of the to ends, so they line up a little better.

So thats about it I guess, hope It will be a trouble-free engine from now on. Happy it only has 25.000km on the clock, and also new clutch, timing-belt, and cluth release bearing :)
Total cost for this engine swap (Incl. used engine, new engine parts, filters, oil, coolant, and everything else) ended on about NOK 24.000 (£2044), which is not bad I think, compared to cost of things at the dealer.

So for any other V40 owners out there that ends up with cracked blocks out of warranty, its absolutely doable in the home garage to swap the engine yourself if you have a little knowledge, the right tools (engine hoist) and som helping hands during lifting engine out and back into the car. Its a lot of V40's on the roads, so its quite easy to source a good used engine from the local car wrecker. It is also very helpfull to have a offline-copy of Volvo Vida / "Workshop-manual" for this car model so everything goes back together the right way, and bolts at correct torque. I always buy these workshop manuals when getting a new car, either in book format (HAYNES) or in web-version. It doesen't cost much, and is worth every penny!

/Stian
 

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@stbo I just want to thank the OP for replying to a question I had on the exhaust leak he experienced with this engine swap. I have a similar exhaust smell after a head gasket swap I did and has been going on a few months. Apologies to OP I could not reply in conversation as the site has as limit for new users. So replying here on thread instead. Thanks again for the detailed information. Hopefully it solves my issue.
 
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