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Hi there people, I have the same problem with my 2014 v40 D2 1.6 pressurising the coolant system.. we swapped the water pump first since we didn’t seem to have any circulation. Water pump was in pieces but unfortunately swapping this out was too little too late. The coolant system is still pressurising causing pipes to swell slightly lowering the level in the header tank which is causing to “low water” warning to pop up.

having searched I find that this is in fact a very common problem with the 1.6 diesel,

I am planning to buy a crash damaged 2.0D V40 and swap the engine-gearbox-ecu-loom into my car. I wonder if anyone has heard of this being done before ?
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Hi there people, I have the same problem with my 2014 v40 D2 1.6 pressurising the coolant system.. we swapped the water pump first since we didn’t seem to have any circulation. Water pump was in pieces but unfortunately swapping this out was too little too late. The coolant system is still pressurising causing pipes to swell slightly lowering the level in the header tank which is causing to “low water” warning to pop up.

having searched I find that this is in fact a very common problem with the 1.6 diesel,

I am planning to buy a crash damaged 2.0D V40 and swap the engine-gearbox-ecu-loom into my car. I wonder if anyone has heard of this being done before ?
Hi Jon,
In theory this should work as long as you bring the ecu and wireloom over from the donor car. But I would have contacted a Volvo garage and get it verified from a Volvo technician before you go down this road. It has now been a year since my D2 1.6 engine swap, and luckily it still runs like clockwork. I replaced the waterpump about 6 months after the engine-swap because it had a minor coolant leak from the bearing (It had been sitting on a shelf for about 4 yours before i bought it), and i wouldn't take any chances with the coolingsystem on this engine, risking same cracked-block-failure again.
 
Reading this post with interest as i am keen to buy a D2. Mainly because i have had a berlingo and half a dozen relatives driving PSA cars with the 1.6 8v HDi engine.

Generally in those applications they are considered reliable, although the cambelt change interval is 10 years/120k miles i normally do it sooner and flush the coolant, i also do the oil every year or 10,000 miles whatever comes first.

I wonder is there anything different about the engine in the volvo application? I couldnt tell from your photos but is the engine the 8 or 16v variant? I am wondering if the block from my old berlingo would be worth holding onto as a spare.
 
Wondering the same, what makes this reliable (relatively) engine prone to cracking blocks in volvo cars and not in Peugeot or Ford ones? I can only guess it’s related to water pump but after so many years and so many cracked blocks someone should have an answer. I did change head gasket and cylinder head a year ago and the problem of coolant loss came back after 10k miles or less. Had I known what causes the problem i would act differently. Best of all: when I mentioned the problem to Volvo dealer they said they never heard of it …
 
Wondering the same, what makes this reliable (relatively) engine prone to cracking blocks in volvo cars and not in Peugeot or Ford ones? I can only guess it’s related to water pump but after so many years and so many cracked blocks someone should have an answer. I did change head gasket and cylinder head a year ago and the problem of coolant loss came back after 10k miles or less. Had I known what causes the problem i would act differently. Best of all: when I mentioned the problem to Volvo dealer they said they never heard of it …
It seems all too easy just to blame it on PSA. Their older 1.6 16v engine when they first come out was known for blowing turbos but a big part of that was the oil change interval was set far too high and a lack of knowlegde regarding the correct grade (low saps) of for the engines. The 8v was a much simpler design but kept the same power outputs.

It would be interesting to place the engines side by side one from a Peugeot or Citroen and one from a V40 and inspect them both for differences.
Im wondering is the thermostat configuration different in the volvo where it could be prone to thermal shock which could potentially cause the cracking. The water pump im not sure how much both could differ as it sits into a casting on the block itself and it would not have been economically feasible to have used a different block.
I dont think the dealers really care now to do a proper evaluation of the problem, most DV6 powered V40s are out of their warranty periods. It would be interesting to discuss this with an actual volvo specialist or an engineer to get a better grasp of whats causing it.
 
My mechanic at local Volvo dealer replied to my mail today, -helpfull guy :) Congratulated me with new engine up and running :)
He thinks the same as me regarding diesel nozzles programming, that If the engine runs fine both at idle and power now, there probably isn't nessecary to program the new nozzles (in the new engine) into the original ECU, their values is probably pretty close to the original nozzles since it runs so well, so can leave it be for now. Instead we can take a look at it the next time car goes in for a MOT/service etc.

When it comes to the right level of transmission fluid on the B6 manual transmission, this is their practice at the shop:
Fill transmissionfluid into the top hole, all the way until it starts dripping out. Then suck out 0.7 L fluid, this would give the right level in the gearbox approx. 1.58L which is stated in Volvo Vida (y)

Car still runs fine, but noticed a little exhaust leak between the turbo and the catalytic converter (not visual smoke, but smells a little exhaust if you put your nose close to the turbo when engine running, so will be replacing the "half-circle" clamp that holds the to ends together with a new one. Probably also need to fine-adjust the position of the to ends, so they line up a little better.

So thats about it I guess, hope It will be a trouble-free engine from now on. Happy it only has 25.000km on the clock, and also new clutch, timing-belt, and cluth release bearing :)
Total cost for this engine swap (Incl. used engine, new engine parts, filters, oil, coolant, and everything else) ended on about NOK 24.000 (ÂŁ2044), which is not bad I think, compared to cost of things at the dealer.

So for any other V40 owners out there that ends up with cracked blocks out of warranty, its absolutely doable in the home garage to swap the engine yourself if you have a little knowledge, the right tools (engine hoist) and som helping hands during lifting engine out and back into the car. Its a lot of V40's on the roads, so its quite easy to source a good used engine from the local car wrecker. It is also very helpfull to have a offline-copy of Volvo Vida / "Workshop-manual" for this car model so everything goes back together the right way, and bolts at correct torque. I always buy these workshop manuals when getting a new car, either in book format (HAYNES) or in web-version. It doesen't cost much, and is worth every penny!

/Stian
What a fantastic post my 2014 xc has same issue I'm just about to aquire a low mileage auto engine and convert to manual reading this answers so many questions 👍
 
Reading this post with interest as i am keen to buy a D2. Mainly because i have had a berlingo and half a dozen relatives driving PSA cars with the 1.6 8v HDi engine.

Generally in those applications they are considered reliable, although the cambelt change interval is 10 years/120k miles i normally do it sooner and flush the coolant, i also do the oil every year or 10,000 miles whatever comes first.

I wonder is there anything different about the engine in the volvo application? I couldnt tell from your photos but is the engine the 8 or 16v variant? I am wondering if the block from my old berlingo would be worth holding onto as a spare.
Do you do the cam belt yourself??

I'm very keen to do mine, but a little apprehensive..
 
Morning all, I am about to embark on an engine replacment on a volvo v40 r-design d2 1.6 myself, the engine I have lined up is a bare engine but does have the turbo, injectors and intake manifold still attached.....my question is whether or not I needed to change the ECU, keys etc or will I be ok using the orignials?
 
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