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Discussion Starter #1
Hi all,

I am a new member but I wanted to ask if anyone was interested in me posting a 'How to guide' on a dashcam installation on a 2014 Volvo v40 R-Design D2? Obviously it will apply to others but I know that there are some fuse differences etc with different model years.

I also am not being completely selfless. I have earthed it but I am not happy with the location I have used and wondered if anyone could provide guidance on a nearby location I could use instead so once I post, assuming people want it, I would appreciate any help from other people.

Well hopefully this will of use to someone and I will get on to posting pictures and instructions. I am not tech or electrical minded so hopefully it would be helpful to others like me who were worried about doing at first.
 

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Hi all,

I am a new member but I wanted to ask if anyone was interested in me posting a 'How to guide' on a dashcam installation on a 2014 Volvo v40 R-Design D2? Obviously it will apply to others but I know that there are some fuse differences etc with different model years.

I also am not being completely selfless. I have earthed it but I am not happy with the location I have used and wondered if anyone could provide guidance on a nearby location I could use instead so once I post, assuming people want it, I would appreciate any help from other people.

Well hopefully this will of use to someone and I will get on to posting pictures and instructions. I am not tech or electrical minded so hopefully it would be helpful to others like me who were worried about doing at first.
That would be great, every little helps I have been in the market for a dash cam but still unsure how I'm going to mount it seeing as I hate exposed wires
 

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Sorry for the massive post! I've played about with how I've had mine wired in but ended up doing the following as no wires showing and a discreet installation was important for me:

  • Dashcam (Blackvue DR650-GW) on the passenger side which for me is on the left hand side of all the city safety gubbins, right up in the corner as far as I could get it but still able to access the SD card and cables
  • The rear camera is on the top edge of rear window frame, sort of under the 3rd brake light really but inside. You can barely see it in fact. I removed nearly every lower interior trim piece on the passenger side to snake the cable to the back of the car, using cable ties and some sort of 3M automotive tape that is very sticky. This process was a pain and nerve wracking but meant for a tidy installation.
  • I couldn't get the rear camera cable through the flexible boot cable cover on either side, so cut a small hole strategically to get the cable through and then sealed it up with a small dab of silicone sealant just in case. If I had my time again I would have figured out a different way perhaps or persevered but I didn't want to damage anything!
  • Due to the rear camera needing a connection, I taped up the power and coaxial cable for the rear camera using Tesa tape until the point they split, around the passenger footwell
  • Stuffed this taped up cable under the headliner, bringing it over to the a-pillar
  • Took the A-pillar cover off (I don't recommend doing this if you can help it, without the correct tools the bolt is at an awkward angle, even with a low profile socket. You also need to buy a fresh bolt as they have blue loctite on them. You also need a fairly low range torque wrench to torque it up correctly, or guess very well). Before I embarked on this I had the wire stuffed just in behind the a pillar cover so this step isn't necessary but I wanted to do it properly.
  • I then used a 3-way TE Connectivity AMP SUPERSEAL connector for permanent live, ground and switched live. I used to have it go straight into the fuse tap but decided to go for a connector as eventually I will get a battery pack for it. To fit the fuse taps I had to remove the glovebox because I just could not get them in properly without removing it (thanks buzby!). It's not that difficult to remove the glovebox really and makes life easier.
  • As above I used fuse taps and tapped into 71 Climate Panel which is always live and 58 rear window wiper which is switched on with the ignition. I didn't want to mess about without anything vaguely important or safety related, or anything where the increased draw might upset some computer system. These have worked well. I keep meaning to bring it to a car electrical place and have two fuse positions made available but with it working I've not been in a rush
  • There is a bolt under the passenger carpet near the door and what for me is the bonnet release. I used this for a ground connection by crimping a ring terminal on the cable and putting the bolt through it
  • Initially I did have problems having the camera always on but it transpired I also had battery issues, I'm sure having the camera always on made that worse, even with Blackvue's Power Magic Pro. With a new battery there probably would not be an issue but I'm not going to chance it, so will get a battery pack when the price is more reasonable, so at the moment, the camera comes on when the car does.
  • I highly recommend cable tieing and taping all cables securely and using Tesa tape where appropriate to ensure you don't have any rattles
  • buzby was super helpful in a lot of the threads I posted on the topic so it's good we can all help each other to have things finished the way we want them.
Again sorry for the long post but thought it might be helpful for others, especially if you can learn from my mistakes! Happy to answer any questions if needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi,

Give me a couple of days and I will post a guide. Raining here so a pest to do it but as soon as we get some dry weather I will do it.

The key thing was finding a fuse that was ignition live only was awkward as all the logical ones like wipers and lights etc were in fact always on in the fuse box under the glovebox.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Actually found this link in another thread.

https://www.polarnight.co.uk/blog/volvo-v40-tidy-dash-cam-installation-with-no-soldering/

Credit to demon-knight for this. I have bought the T-Tap connectors and going to try it mine. Was able to remove the cover around the rear view mirror no problem and there is plenty of room in there. Bear in mind I don't have the auto dimming mirror or the rain sensing wipers. So what I will do is show you how i did it before and also how i did it with using this link and you can decide how you prefer.
 

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Hey I am getting loads of warnings about that link as being unsafe ??
Anyone else noticed this or visited without a problem?
May be just my security being over zealous.
 

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Actually found this link in another thread.

https://www.polarnight.co.uk/blog/volvo-v40-tidy-dash-cam-installation-with-no-soldering/

Credit to demon-knight for this. I have bought the T-Tap connectors and going to try it mine. Was able to remove the cover around the rear view mirror no problem and there is plenty of room in there. Bear in mind I don't have the auto dimming mirror or the rain sensing wipers. So what I will do is show you how i did it before and also how i did it with using this link and you can decide how you prefer.
If you are going to use the auto dimming mirror connector for the power and ground, don't use those dreadful t-tap connectors as they damage the wiring. Use the proper 3-pole JAE connector and terminals that fit onto the existing connector. They aren't expensive. The details of the part numbers and where to buy them are in this old post of mine:
http://www.volvov40club.com/forums/7-volvo-v40-general-discussion/22602-easy-tidy-v40-dashcam-install.html#post200138
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Dashcam Install Guide

Hi all,

As promised please find my guide and comments below. For the record if you do this you do so at your own risk and I am not to be held responsible for any damage or warranty voiding that occurs because of your actions. I was doing this on 2015MY D2 R-Design Manual with no auto dimming rearview mirror.

Further to Buzby's post I think he raises a good point but I had already completed the install. As mentioned earlier, I actually did this in two different ways.

Approach 1 - Using the Fuse box



What you need:

> Socket set or spanners (if you really must spanners will do)
> trim removal tools
> Needle nose pliers (useful for getting fuses out if the fuse puller tool doesn't work very well).
> Black insulation tape (not necessary if push comes to shove but it just helped me to keep small cables tidy and from catching on things)
> Add-a-fuse (micro fuse type).
> Micro fuses (I used a 5A one but just by a mixed set as they are useful to keep around anyway)
> 12v to 5v adapter with relevant output attachment e.g. micro or mini USB. I used a Cell Power one off Amazon but I am no expert on which is best, make sure it has plenty of cable as you can always trim it down and/or tuck it away somewhere.
> Cable strippers
> Terminal crimpers - to attach the Add-a-fuse and any other crimp connectors
> Crimp connectors and crimp terminals (useful for earthing and also if you intend to shorten cables)
> A circuit tester or circuit testing screw driver.

1. Plan the layout of the cables


I am not going to go into every detail in terms of general steps that apply to all cars. There are plenty of videos on Youtube. However, I would insist that you get some tape and layout and stick where you plan to run the cable on the outside (don't start tucking in yet). You don't want to not have enough cable to reach the camera after you have tucked it behind the seals and headlining. I had to remove my cabling because I was a couple of inches short of reaching the dashcam.

2. Identify a suitable fuse

It was difficult as I didn't have an owners manual and so was trying to find an 'ignition only' one and while manuals are available I wasn't quite sure which applied to me and you would be amazed the changes made between and during years. Anyway, I used the the fuses under the glovebox. As soon as you get your head in the footwell you will see it and it is very easy to remove the cover and reattach. I then used fuse 85, in my case this was a 7.5 fuse for 'button seat heating rear' but I do not have this option fitted.

http://www.filedropper.com/20170804153406

3. Identify an earth point

I was not happy with this earth point under the passenger seat (RHD car) as I am sure the box that was being bolted down was important and electrical related but it was the only one I was sure was into the chassis rather than just some plastic thread. I did consider removing the plastic cover on the bolt that bolts the passenger seat to the floor but the cable itself was not as tidy and would be exposed more and could potentially get kicked or pulled by a foot or when I am vacuuming the car.

http://www.filedropper.com/20170822133306

4. Time to start the install

So attach the Add-a-Fuse to the live terminal on the adapter using the crimp tool. Make sure you have stripped the cable to expose the actual wire instead of just crimping the outer sheath. Then attach the terminal crimp to the black cable and this will be your one for earthing. Plenty online about doing this.

You then need to double check the fuse does what you want as it may not be 85 as it was in my case you can use a circuit tester at this point with both the ignition on and off (it didn't work with my screwdrivers even though they were definitely working. To remove the fuse you should have a tool but you can also use the needle-nose pliers, just pull them out perpendicular and don't twist or bend them as you remove it.

Anyway, once you have found the correct fuse make sure you put the original fuse in the correct place for your add-a-fuse and the one for your device in the correct one. Then insert the Add-a-fuse into the place where the fuse was. The 12v to 5v adapter and excess cable can be tucked behind the carpet in the footwell.

http://www.filedropper.com/20170822133658

5. Earthing

As I said I wasn't happy with this but I will show you how I did it for your information. You need to run the cable down between the carpet and the trim where the handle for the bonnet release and along the footwell until you get to that split in the carpet halfway along the passenger seat (see picture below).

http://www.filedropper.com/20170822133615

Then tuck it under this carpet until you reach the metal box under the seat and pull it out so as to reach the earth point as per the picture above in point 3.

http://www.filedropper.com/20170822133314

6. Hiding the USB cable

As per the picture below push the cable up into the trim, perhaps use your trim tool.

http://www.filedropper.com/20170822133851

Run this over to the rubber seal of the door and run it all the way up to the top of the 'A' pillar.

http://www.filedropper.com/20170822133911

Then push this in, which can feel like you are perhaps going to break it but you are fine, I use the trim tool to push it in and around until I get to the windscreen and then just tuck it up into the headlining.

http://www.filedropper.com/20170822134413

For point 6 there are a million and one guides online on how to do this. One thing I would say, is depending on the thickness of your cable, you can run this round the top of the rearview mirror cluster between the plastic with the lights and warning about the seatbelts and the one that hides the base of the rearview mirror.

Approach 2 - Using the spare cable in the rearview mirror cluster.

For the record I don't have an auto-dimming rearview mirror so don't know if this works with this or whether you want to risk it. Also the room is limited in this so make sure the power adapter box is relatively small. Also you may want to read buzby's advice on this but I had already completed it.

Use the instructions per the website below:

https://www.polarnight.co.uk/blog/volvo-v40-tidy-dash-cam-installation-with-no-soldering/

I also attach a link to a source on how to remove the cover.

http://accessories.volvocars.com/en-ee/all/InstallationInstruction/Document/VCC-443140-1/all/all/all/default/V40%20(13-)%202015

Points to note

1. Rather than tuck lots of cable in this box I trimmed a lot of cable off and reattached the end using crimp connectors and insulation tape. However, don't do this until you have checked it works.
2. It is an always on connection but if you look the car seems to cut power to the device after 1-2 minutes and the device switches off. However, if the car is unlocked it will remain on permanently. Which is useful as basically if you are sat in the car with no power on it will still be recording.
3. I found the that when removing the cluster casing it is not hard but when putting the cover back on I recommend you first pop the little 'pocket' that bulges out the bottom and make sure that everything will fit when you connect the case back on. Then take the casing off and fit the pocket back on. You cannot store the adapter in the pocket because it is there to accommodate the mirror.
4. Before you put the case back on there is a small bit of plastic that goes directly above the mirror. Put this in place and tuck it under first and then try and put the rest of the casing on. It is fiddly but you can slot it back into place with patience.

Well I hope that helps. Sorry for the pictures not being embedded but it didn't seem to want to let me upload more than a couple of photos.
 

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Abby,

I conneced a front only dashcam into the rear wiper fuse and found this to be a constant on source, but having done so my rear wipers no longer work any thoughts?
 

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Abby,

I conneced a front only dashcam into the rear wiper fuse and found this to be a constant on source, but having done so my rear wipers no longer work any thoughts?
Hmm, mine definitely wasn't always on, though mine is a 2013 model if that makes any difference. It will become live when you unlock the car and will stay live for a short time after you lock it and walk away but it's definitely a switched source in my car.

I assume you are using a fuse tap? If you remove the tap and just replace the fuse back to normal, does it work again? I'm not an expert so all I can think of is the fuse tap not making a proper connection because there isn't much to them really.
 

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Hmm, mine definitely wasn't always on, though mine is a 2013 model if that makes any difference. It will become live when you unlock the car and will stay live for a short time after you lock it and walk away but it's definitely a switched source in my car.

I assume you are using a fuse tap? If you remove the tap and just replace the fuse back to normal, does it work again? I'm not an expert so all I can think of is the fuse tap not making a proper connection because there isn't much to them really.
The rear wiper feed shouldn't be a permanent live. As you say, it stays on for a short period after locking but then is switched off by the CEM.

If the wiper doesn't work after removing the fuse tap and reinserting the fuse, then it could be a big problem as the CEM may have been damaged. I keep telling people not to touch it and to connect to the the fuses in the under seat fusebox.
 

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Agreed on this one - some good advice here but car goes into a local volvo specialist later this week after i managed to "do something" to the driver's door controls when trying to install the 12v to 5v USB transformer for the dashcam. Hopefully the door module just needs a kick start but if not repair is not going to be cheap.

Any guidance on the under seat fuses? Possible tap in points and more importantly routing to the area around the rear view mirror?

The complication I'm thinking around is the side impact system air bags so assuming I'll need to route under the carpet and up from the floor past the driver's door?

Car is RHD.
 

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Just take it off the 12 volt supply connector that is tied up for the auto dimming rear view mirror?? Which is about 3 inches from where you are likely to mount the camera.
This is present on all V40's and is backed up with a 5A fuse.

I don't understand what all the fuss is about to be honest, tapping into the back of fuses, routing cables up all the sensitive A pillars etc that have airbags in.

If you want to use the connector directly, get the other end for it from RS spares for a couple of quid and make it look really professional.

Have a search on it, there is a thread on here.
 

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Agreed on this one - some good advice here but car goes into a local volvo specialist later this week after i managed to "do something" to the driver's door controls when trying to install the 12v to 5v USB transformer for the dashcam. Hopefully the door module just needs a kick start but if not repair is not going to be cheap.

Any guidance on the under seat fuses? Possible tap in points and more importantly routing to the area around the rear view mirror?

The complication I'm thinking around is the side impact system air bags so assuming I'll need to route under the carpet and up from the floor past the driver's door?

Car is RHD.
I would agree with chiptivo's view that connecting to the auto dimming rear view mirror connector is probably the easiest and safest way to power a dashcam. The details of the JAE connector you need to mate to it are in this post (it's probably worth reading the whole thread - it's the one Chiptivo is talking about):
http://www.volvov40club.com/forums/7-volvo-v40-general-discussion/22602-easy-tidy-v40-dashcam-install.html#post200138
If you want to use a connection in the underseat fuse box, the description of which fuses are permanent live and which are switched live is at the bottom of this post:
http://www.volvov40club.com/forums/16-volvo-v40-modifications/16722-dab-retrofit-2.html#post157705
 

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Will it have any effect on the auto dimming mirror tapping into its power supply?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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This is now officially driving me nuts! Installed into auto dim circuit and all seemed to be working. ... then you start the car and it turns off. Turn car off it comes back on again. Suggestions? The 5v power unit had a live and accessories lead so ive just used the live feed and taped off the accessories feed.
 
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