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Discussion Starter #1
I know it has been asked alot, to run the DRL-LED at the same time as the headlights. i know the V40 starting MY2015 run the lower DRL dimmed when the car is equipped with Xenon and the main headlights come on.
Hologen headlights do not have this option. the DRL shut off once the headlights come on.

So a mate and i came up with an idea, but i need someone who can confirm this will work.
i assume the DRL are running on 12 Volts and illuminate 100%. since they are LED the Amperage will probably be low.

the CEM of the Volvo wil auto shut-off the DRL when the headlights come on (in AUTO-mode)
so whe had an idea: when you add a parralel wire(feed from 12v headlights or something) with a voltage regulator which converts to 6 volts, equipped with a diode, towards the DRL,
they should be dimmed on when the headlights come on.

although i have some questions:

the DRL have a connector with 3 wires, what is the 3rd one for?

I have a xenon retrofit, 12v (original halogen feed) goes via canbus-error module to the ballast to prevent errors
would pulling 12V in front of the canbus module cause a canbus error? or what are better/ optional 12V main feeds to feed DRL.

the idea we have could pull power from a 12V source which is powered when the ignition is on, thats where the diodes are for, so the 12V doesnt overrule and blow up the 6v side.

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Isn't it better to get the power straight from the battery and use a seperate relay to activate the little circuit to control the DRL? Also, isn't the DRL 9V circuit? That surprised me with my motorcycle a few weeks ago, with similar DRL and having canbus.

A bit off-topic: What exactly did you do or how did you manage the xenon retrofit? I'm looking into getting a retrofit but as far as I understood there needs to be done some change in the wiring harness and programming of the software.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Could be possible it is a 9V system, not sure how to confirm? and yes it is possible too, to use a relay and get another 12v source like the battery, that is option 2.

I did a H1 Xenon rebuild from Retrofotlab. So no original Volvo Xenon units, but a projector retrofit inside the original headlight housing. You connect the 12v H7 bulb connector to a ballast and canbus error module + you need to seperate the "glass" from the headlight housing by cutting it open to place the bi-xenon projector. **** of a job.

So no option here for bending lights, automatic high adjusting and no washsystem

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It wasn’t possible. Tried myself with many ways and a lot of diodes. Always getting an error. Drl on is 12v. When off is (obvious) 0v but even if they were off and unplugged they triggered an error (canbus). When they were in “off” mode and you drive a +12v line with diodes they light up for a few times and then the light module cuts out ground, sometimes on the left one, sometimes on the right one, sometimes both, always giving an error. So I hardwired drls with an extra drl module to be autonomous and Instead of the led I added on each side of the car’s wire a tiny bulb which was 24v so it doesn’t produce light and heat but the control module thinks everything is still there cheating the canbus system. So far so good, two years now, no errors still working perfect!
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Wow nice, thanks. Can you help on telling me which wires to pick connecting it? By that i mean: "connects to ACC for power", which wires are good to pick in the enginebay? no way to get an accessory power source from inside the car because routing those wires through the firewall will be ****. And what fuses to add and where, just in case.

Looks like a great solution for running those sexy DRL Leds in the night too. Even turn signals and strobe but that is an overkill for me.

Oohh uh and how you connect a 24v bulb to a DRL connector with 3 pins?

Thanks!!
 

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Yes turn signals and strobe is an overkill. Just don’t use them and cut them out as I did. For ACC power I used fuse number 39 from the fuse box in the engine bay (fuse 10 amps). My DRLs had two wires, just +&- so it was quite easy. If yours is with three pins then maybe you need just an update in the light module and I can’t help you with this, sorry.
16863
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Yes turn signals and strobe is an overkill. Just don’t use them and cut them out as I did. For ACC power I used fuse number 39 from the fuse box in the engine bay (fuse 10 amps). My DRLs had two wires, just +&- so it was quite easy. If yours is with three pins then maybe you need just an update in the light module and I can’t help you with this, sorry. View attachment 16863
well i am not sure about the 3 pins, its just something i assume since i found some DRL form pictures with a 3 pin, also found some 2-pins. so i need to take off the front bumper to check, cant be that hard to remove. what MY do you have? cant be different on mine.
Fuse 39 is used for headlightleveling according to the Manual, wont interupt its function? of should i just pick a 10 amp ''unused'' one? what is the black ''fuse carrier'' u used to draw off the power from in the enginebay fusebox, have not seen it before.

maybe you can also tell me what other parts you used? like the parts for hooking up the 24v bulb and stuff.

maybe when i have everything, and i build it, i can make a sticky page and a small ''how to'' for others, seems like you have the knowledge.
 

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Mine is MY15. Yes fuse No 39 is headlight levelling. You don’t interrupt it’s function. You just “steal” the +12v. All you need is this:

As for the bulbs, I didn’t use something special. I soldered them directly to the cables. You can use 508T or t5 or w5w bulbs 24v.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Mine is MY15. Yes fuse No 39 is headlight levelling. You don’t interrupt it’s function. You just “steal” the +12v. All you need is this:

As for the bulbs, I didn’t use something special. I soldered them directly to the cables. You can use 508T or t5 or w5w bulbs 24v.
idea tho, what about a resistor instead of a bulb?
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Yes a resistor may work. But I don’t know how many ohms are needed
well, you told me a W5W bulb works, on 24v.
508T bulb is 1,2W, a W5W bulb is 5W
calculation on 12v:

P= U * I 5 = 12 * ? 5/12 = I
I = 0,416 A

U = I * R -> U/I = R

12v / 0,416 A
= 28,8 omhs

agree right?

after some google: there are CANbus-error- resistors which, indeed, have 30 ohms.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You’re right. But I don’t know if they produce heat. Maybe use it with a heat shrink.
well, ofcourse it wil produce heat, but wont be much.
if you used a T5 or 508T, those are 1,2W. than i should use a 480 Ohm resistor. maybe ill go save with a 500 ohm, hoping the CAN accepts it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Everything is ordered, So i expect to have everything up and running next month.

I have not asked yet, but i know on older VOLVO models the DRL can be programmed trough vida/dice. Will there be no way to program these on our 2015 non-xenon models?

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I asked my local dealer and another Volvo specialist and both told me it’s not possible. You can give it a try too and let us know
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well than probably that is the case, everything is ordered anyway.

Stil not sure about the resistor i would use.
Im not sure the Canbus is reading Amperage or ohm to ensure the "bulb" is working and what his tolerances are.

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