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I've probably got some cable the right diameter and long enough in my scrap body loom. They won't be the same colours, but it should do the job. I'm all packed up for a house move at the moment, but after I've got all my stuff over I'll have a look if you want.
Thanks for the offer! I spotted this on ebay the other night so will probably order some up.

I haven't got the additional light yet but see there are some also being sold on eBay as replacements/brighter upgrades.

Good luck with the house move
 

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Is there a trick to getting the light units out cleanly without damage or disassembly?
I had a look at both my boot ones (left and tailgate) and they are in very tightly. And it's not at all clear which end to lever out first, presumably the opposite to the plug but there's no clue whatsoever, nor any slot for a tool/screwdriver.

The left side came out eventually in one piece, but the tailgate one just delivered me the transparent cover. :crying:
Luckily the main part of the unit didn't disappear, but it took several minutes of teasing and levering to get that through the hole so I could reassemble and refit it. :mad:
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Is there a trick to getting the light units out cleanly without damage or disassembly?
I had a look at both my boot ones (left and tailgate) and they are in very tightly. And it's not at all clear which end to lever out first, presumably the opposite to the plug but there's no clue whatsoever, nor any slot for a tool/screwdriver.

The left side came out eventually in one piece, but the tailgate one just delivered me the transparent cover. :crying:
Luckily the main part of the unit didn't disappear, but it took several minutes of teasing and levering to get that through the hole so I could reassemble and refit it. :mad:
Looka the picture I posted of the light unit I bought:

The end opposite the connector has a large sprung retaining tang on it. On the D pillar trims there are holes in the panel either side of the light unit hole so you can get your fingers up and press the tang and push the light out from behind. That's generally the easiest way to get them out.

The one in the tailgate panel (and the ones in the bottom of the doors) would require the panel to be removed, As you have found though, the diffuser unclips if you try to get them out from the front side of the panel, which is OK as long as it then doesn't disappear behind the panel. They sre basically supposed to last the life of the car, so I expect there wasn't much thought put in to getting them out.
 

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Thanks buzby, I'm going to leave the tailgate light well alone now.
As for the left side one, I reckon a small thin flat-blade screwdriver could be slipped in to depress that tang and release it. Once you've worked out which end is which. Those holes covered by the removable panel are a great help, as you pointed out.
 

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Just a quick update on where I am with this. Having got all of the relevant bits I've now got the cable made up and have successfully tested it in the car. Now I just need some time to pull the car apart to install it.

Took at look at removing the trim across the back of the boot (step 72 in the parking assistance guide Buzby linked to) thinking that would give me a good idea of where the cable needs to go, however despite undoing the two screws it didn't want to budge, even with a lot of force. Need to take a look in daylight I think!
 

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I really need to fix this mod, but it is a bit risky to disassemble new car.

Wery expensive parts here in sweden with the shipping..
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Took at look at removing the trim across the back of the boot (step 72 in the parking assistance guide Buzby linked to) thinking that would give me a good idea of where the cable needs to go, however despite undoing the two screws it didn't want to budge, even with a lot of force. Need to take a look in daylight I think!
The tesa tape is good stuff isn't it. It doesn't seem all that sticky but manages to really fuse itself together.
Not sure how I missed these posts, but that's looking good! Tesa tape is great stuff - flexible, abrasion resistant and sticks to itself very well without degrading into a sticky mess over time. It's why manufacturers use it for everything except external looms that need to be weatherproof.

Getting the boot sill trim off is a bit of a 'leap of faith' - after taking out the 2 Torx screws, it's held in by a number of very tight 'pin and socket' moulded plastic clips. Start at one end and get the fingers from one hand under the top edge, then grab the bottom lip where the bolt was with the other hand and pull upwards. With enough force the pins with pop out of the sockets but it's a bit of a struggle, especially the first time.

What is the art nr of volvo orginal female connector and terminals? Anywone have this?
The female (receptacle housing in Volvo's terms) is the one with the sockets in that I gave the part numbers for earlier in the thread (30656844 for the housing and 30656669 for the receptacle contacts). The male (tab housing in Volvo-speak) is the one with the pins in.

Finding the part numbers of connector housings in VIDA is a nightmare as they don't have much in the way of descriptions - you basically have to know a loom that has the connector you want to be able to identify it. Saying that, I think the 3-pole Green tab housing is 30656845. Finding the part number for the repair terminal is a lot more difficult though as they have no description at all.

It should also be noted that Volvo repair terminals are pre-crimped to a short length of wire that has to be soldered to whatever you want to use them on. The OEM JAE housings and uncrimped terminals are much easier to work with if you have a crimp tool.
 

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Getting the boot sill trim off is a bit of a 'leap of faith' - after taking out the 2 Torx screws, it's held in by a number of very tight 'pin and socket' moulded plastic clips. Start at one end and get the fingers from one hand under the top edge, then grab the bottom lip where the bolt was with the other hand and pull upwards. With enough force the pins with pop out of the sockets but it's a bit of a struggle, especially the first time.
Thanks. I suspect that was the case. I think I also need to remove the plastic struts that support the flexible floor as they overlap the sill trim. Must find a time to try again when I have some spare time, this time in daylight!
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I would love an explanation of how to remove the struts without braking them.
The gas struts on the tailgate? The ball sockets at each end have a plastic bar/clip on the back of them that captures the ball into the socket. You use a small flat-blade screwdriver to slide the clips down towards the ends of the sockets, and then you can pull the sockets off the balls.
 

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I'm not sure if mini_ice was referring to my post, but the struts I was struggling with were the ones that the flexible load floor sit on running either side of the boot. I'm hoping I may get a chance next week to take a further look and finally get the additional light installed.
 

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Earlier this week I finally got around to fitting this, so I now how stereo lighting in my boot :smile2:. The trim that covers the boot sill really does not want to come off. As Buzby says you just have to go for it and hope for the best... A few of the lugs got damaged but it has gone back on fine.

I noticed behind the drivers side rear light cluster (r/h drive car) there is a spare connector (maybe 6 or 8 pin female, I meant to take a pic and forgot). Does anyone know what this is? I was wondering if there was any chance it was for the optional 12v power output you can have in the boot.

A very big thank you to Buzby for detailing how to fit the additional light, I certainly wouldn't have attempted it without the information he had provided.
 

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I hink that the connector is for both the trailer module and for the 12v outlet, IF you check the accecoaries manual.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
I noticed behind the drivers side rear light cluster (r/h drive car) there is a spare connector (maybe 6 or 8 pin female, I meant to take a pic and forgot). Does anyone know what this is? I was wondering if there was any chance it was for the optional 12v power output you can have in the boot.
As mini_ice said above, the connectors (there's 2 of them, there's a grey 2 pin one as well as the one you noticed) are the power and control connections for Trailer Module and tow bar. The loom in the 12V cargo power socket installation kit tees into these connections for it's power feed.
A very big thank you to Buzby for detailing how to fit the additional light, I certainly wouldn't have attempted it without the information he had provided.
Glad to be of service ;-)
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
I’ve bought all the bits needed. But have discovered the boot panel has a connection in there already it’s not working. Any one have any ideas?
That's on the tailgate. This thread is about the missing boot light that fits under the RHS boot trim (opposite side to the one that's there).

That connector in the tailgate is for a third light, which was part of the 'enhanced interior lighting' option. It needs extra wiring from the CEM to the body loom that runs up tot he LHS top corner of the boot where the tailgate loom connects to the body loom.

The reasin it's there but not working is because there are 3 levels of tailgate wiring loom with different combinations of the connectors required for different combinations of options (do you have DAB radio and/or the rear parking camera, for instance?).

It's much more difficult to retrofit the tailgate light unit than the missing one on the RHS of the boot.
 

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hello

16 plate d2 r design, no camera but does have dab, sorry i thought it was the same post, i think there was a wiring diagram you posted shows it can be ran on the same circuit as the rhs light, i had hoped i could make it work without building the loom section, ive got the parts to build up a basic loom same as yours, will feed it through the boot join when i fit the new spoiler. just hoped i could activate the existing one
 
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