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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The start/stop on my car won't work if the car hasn't been used for a couple of days unless it gets a run of 30 or 40 miles. The main battery was replaced at the start of winter but I suspect the secondary battery needs changing too. Does anyone know if there is anywhere that remains powered by the secondary battery with the ignition off? I could then check how well it is holding a charge when the car is powered down. If I had a wiring diagram I'm sure I could find such a point, one of the fuses hopefully.
 

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unsure, sorry... its located under the l/h headlight accessed through the arch liner I believe. some say a half decent dealer would run a test for no fee
 

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I'm not sure if an OBDII reader would be able to report on the battery health
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Actually, quite a few batery parameters are at the OBDII port.

You need a decent elm327 adapter as cheap ones often don't work properly with the Car Scanner ELM OBD2 app

View attachment 17484

View attachment 17485
That's impressive. I'll have another look with Car Scanner. I've been using ELM 327 adaptors for quite few years mainly for motorcycle use and I'm sure the one I have now is as good as any.
 

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I use 2014+ engine vae (not spa) for my 2017 v40 should i use platform 3 as seen as above? or was that not relevant?
 

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The start/stop on my car won't work if the car hasn't been used for a couple of days unless it gets a run of 30 or 40 miles. The main battery was replaced at the start of winter but I suspect the secondary battery needs changing too. Does anyone know if there is anywhere that remains powered by the secondary battery with the ignition off? I could then check how well it is holding a charge when the car is powered down. If I had a wiring diagram I'm sure I could find such a point, one of the fuses hopefully.
100% Sure the secondary battery located LH front under wheel arch (small motorcycle bty) is depleted. I had same problem, replaced and voila...PERFECT
 

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If the main bat has been replaced with the correct AH and CC, and you are having these issues, then replace the small one as well. 1st time this happend to me, it was the small battery, it may show 13.1v which is low, as soon as current is drawn, it will drop below the threshold the car wants to see.
You can always remove the battery, hook up a multimeter, and connect a 12V globe....if it suddenly drops below 12.4v or less, it's time to replace.

Rather replace, and no more problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
If the main bat has been replaced with the correct AH and CC, and you are having these issues, then replace the small one as well. 1st time this happend to me, it was the small battery, it may show 13.1v which is low, as soon as current is drawn, it will drop below the threshold the car wants to see.
You can always remove the battery, hook up a multimeter, and connect a 12V globe....if it suddenly drops below 12.4v or less, it's time to replace.

Rather replace, and no more problems.
Indeed, but there is so much work in gaining access to the secondary battery that you might as well it replace while you're in there anyway. Which is why I asked in the first post if there was anywhere that the secondary battery voltage could be accessed. I know that there is a secondary battery relay that presumably switches in the secondary battery when the engine is running, so there will be power from it there at all times. However, I don't know where the relay is located, nor which one it is.
Anyway, I have bought a new Yuasa battery, I'm just waiting for a day of good weather to take the bumper off to fit it.
 

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I know it's a pain getting to it, but all and all an hours work. Bumper removal is easy. It can also be done, by just loosening the right side of the bumper. Not the best, but it can be done.
Even with Vida, getting readings from the battery is a pain. I also replaced with Yausa 12ah....
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
I replaced the secondary battery with a Yuasa YTX12-Bs and the start/stop is now behaving as it should. I tried to reset the battery management system using procedure posted elsewhere involving pressing the fog light and hazard light switches in a particular sequence, as posted elsewhere on here, but couldn't get the battery symbol to appear and flash in the dash. No matter it didn't seem to mind.
Getting the bumper skin back on again was a bit of a task, I had to get my wife to steady the top while I fitted it at the bottom
One other point worth mentioning. The Yuasa is about 12mm taller than the original Volvo battery which meant that the securing bracket had to be bent slightly to fit. That was no problem but the additional height made fitting the negative cable a very fiddly and awkward job, The available space is bad enough with the OEM battery but the extra height of the Yuasa made it almost impossible for my fat fingers to get in there. With persistence I got there eventually though.
 

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Glad you got it sorted. I know the system reads and resets after a certain sleep mode time.
Lucky I got a Yuasa model YTX12_BS that firts perfecty. Did a lot of searching to find the correct model.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Strange because the Yuasa YTX12-BS that I fitted is130mm high but the Volvo marked battery (it had no other manufacturer markings) was only 109mm high and only 8Ah as opposed to 10Ah for the Yuasa.
 
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