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Although the modern engines don't need to be run in ( you will not find anything such in your manufacturer's manual), I took it easy at the first 2.500kms
Gear change at low rpm and avoided hard accelerations.
Just to be on the safe side....

Are you considering an early oil change? Let's say around 3.000-4.000kms?

How does your d2 feels to drive. Please do post your impressions in this/or new thread.
 

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I can't remember what it is called but there is a school of thought saying drive it as normal high revs the works, this is to help the rings seal.

I am not convinced so drive it as normal but lit it to 2/3's the rev range.

What ever you do (as posted above) do not labour the engine
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Gear change at low rpm and avoided hard accelerations.
Just to be on the safe side....
Actually i change gear ~ 2.000 - 2.500 rev.

Are you considering an early oil change? Let's say around 3.000-4.000kms?
Not really, i asked my dealer specific for this trend and it told that there is no need. [/QUOTE]

How does your d2 feels to drive. Please do post your impressions in this/or new thread.
Splendid ! I really don't have words to describe it.

I have no complaints whatsoever.

I have 500 khm on the clock and my fuel consumption is 4.8 mostly inside town.

The steering is great. The Suspension is how it supposed to be.

In general there is no surprises yet.
 

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Interesting theories, but having had many new diesel powered vehicles in our business- the ones that have been worked hard from day one tend to end up better than those that have been molly coddled?
 

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Interesting theories, but having had many new diesel powered vehicles in our business- the ones that have been worked hard from day one tend to end up better than those that have been molly coddled?
Drive it like ya stole it, there is some merit in it. My Dad works for VW he had a couple of Tourans the best one was the demonstrator/staff car because it had been worked hard, it was smoother and returned better mpg than the Touran he had from new and drove gently.

Same in my industry working with chainsaws, there are those who will idle through the first few tanks before going full throttle, this is the worst thing you can do, the pot and piston, crank case and lower end will all heat up a different rates. The best way to break them in is full throttle in the wood so everything heats up and beds in at normal operating temps.

Modern machines have such good tolerances these days.
 

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What is the reason for the early oil change, out of interest?
 

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Middle of road here, as an engineer I have always run mine in, under 3k rpm for 2,000 miles no labouring engine, vary revs and change oil to Mobil 1 as soon as it starts to colour, usually 3k - 4k miles.

Modern cutting tools, high speed machines and materials mean far better surface finishes are produced, meaning more slip and less friction from the off - hence no recommended run in periods.

I used to change oil at 1,000 miles when it coloured (from paticles shed when wearing in), but in last few new cars I have noticed oil lasts far longer before colouring, so yes things are far better and running in is less critical, if not useless.

I will drive mine easy for first 1k miles and see how oil looks, if no colour then no harm in pushing it.

Golden rule for the life of the car is never take a cold engine over middle of rpm range & never let it labour.

Once it's warm through (5 min after hitting middle of temp gauge) bend the rpm needle as often as you like - ahem drive it in as econical fashion that suits you
 

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sorry to say this but im still a beliver in running in new components,is good practice as is high quality oil,however once done diesels do respond to a regular good run and the odd clear out ! been driving them for the last 18 plus years and never had a mot fail yet on the emmisions test !
 
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