Volvo V40 Forums banner
21 - 38 of 38 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
1,012 Posts
Just for information, I decided today that I would remove the fixing bolt on the leading edge of both my rear door panels as a "just in case it ever happens to me" measure. This is the one that can't be accessed if the door is unable to be opened and which results in removal damage to the door panel. On my 2017MY car, it appears that the bolt is no longer fitted. The door panel moulding is continuous with no covering cap or hole where the bolt should be located, so it appears that it has been modified to simplify removal if the door is stuck shut. Pity they couldn't just modify the locks so that they didn't need replacing.
Where is this bolt located, and what should I be looking for ?
 

· Registered
Joined
·
634 Posts
Where is this bolt located, and what should I be looking for ?
If you open the door, look on the leading edge of the internal plastic door panel, near the top. If you have the fixing bolt there will be an oval plastic cap that can be prised out, with a bolt securing the panel to the door frame beneath it. When the door is shut it is closed against the B-post and although there is a slight gap, there's no way to prises the cap off or remove the bolt in situ.

Pink Violet Magenta
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,022 Posts
Interesting, I just checked my EARLY 2016 MY and there's a depression near the top of the front edge of the rear door card but no bolt or screw.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,012 Posts
No bolt or screw on mine either, (2016 V40 R Design)
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
Hi folks

First post here and it’s a problem ☹ I’ve recently encountered a similar issue. We have a 2014 V40 D3. The passenger side doors won’t unlock/open, the windows don’t work, the illumination for the door switches is off, the mirror no longer folds and the mirror indicator doesn’t flash anymore. In other words… nothing works on that side. We contacted our local Volvo dealer and they have quoted an initial £120 diagnostic charge before any talk of costs for an actual fix. This seems crazy.
What I can’t figure out though, is how a single fault could affect both the front and rear doors. I would have thought they had separate control modules?! I’ve swapped fuses 4 and 5 found under the drivers seat to see if that fixes anything, but still no power to the doors. Am I missing something obvious before I inevitably shell out the 120 bucks?

Thanks for any insight!
 

· Read Only
Joined
·
71 Posts
If you open the door, look on the leading edge of the internal plastic door panel, near the top. If you have the fixing bolt there will be an oval plastic cap that can be prised out, with a bolt securing the panel to the door frame beneath it. When the door is shut it is closed against the B-post and although there is a slight gap, there's no way to prises the cap off or remove the bolt in situ.

View attachment 16696 View attachment 16697
very useful thank you! , im doing mine tomorrow, might strip the door as a pre run to the real thing if (when) it happens
 

· Registered
Joined
·
404 Posts
If you open the door, look on the leading edge of the internal plastic door panel, near the top. If you have the fixing bolt there will be an oval plastic cap that can be prised out, with a bolt securing the panel to the door frame beneath it. When the door is shut it is closed against the B-post and although there is a slight gap, there's no way to prises the cap off or remove the bolt in situ.

View attachment 16696 View attachment 16697
 

· Registered
Joined
·
404 Posts
On MY18 car it looks like they have done away with the fixing bolt in that position. The top panel has the circular recess, but has not been pre drilled for the bolt, nor a plastic cover cap.
Probably sick of destroying the door cards, so having both the cost of a new lock, and replacement cards done under warranty. Pity they didn't re design the lock. Not sure about the faulty batch - there must be a small design change to make things full proof.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
634 Posts
On MY18 car it looks like they have done away with the fixing bolt in that position. The top panel has the circular recess, but has not been pre drilled for the bolt, nor a plastic cover cap.
Probably sick of destroying the door cards, so having both the cost of a new lock, and replacement cards done under warranty. Pity they didn't re design the lock. Not sure about the faulty batch - there must be a small design change to make things full proof.
I found an old post on here yesterday suggesting that the modified door cards may have been fitted since at least 2015MY.

There is currently a recall underway in the US to replace door locks on 145,000 2011-2017 S60 and V60 cars, but it is for doors failing to lock or coming open unexpectedly - the exact opposite problem.

"According to Volvo, a latch can weaken and the retention hook for the pawl spring in the door latch may break off if the vehicle is exposed to hot climates. The automaker says simply opening a door can cause a latch fracture."
 

· Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Hi All
Ref REAR doors wont open :-lock fault caused by operating handle and electrical release together .
v40 X country 2013
Possible DIY money saving fix .

Further to my posts on gaining access to the locks I have now repaired both rear door locks and refitted them .
The fault on both locks was so simple , but that's easy to say with hind sight .
With the lock unit out of the door
I found that the lock electric actuator simply rotates and operates the child lock release spring by holding it away from the lock release lever . The same fashion as the child lock .

The fault was .....At the end of the electric actuator rod ( Made of black plastic ) there is a " U " spring which locates on a grooved circular pivot . This spring had slipped off the rod . I repositioned it , ( only fits in one way , can be seen and accessed and its the end away from the solenoid part )
The locks when refitted work correctly , mechanical / electrical / door handles / interior release all work as they should . Of course this could happen again , but the choice is , risk it , or 2 locks from volvo cost £295
If any one has similar problem I hope this information is usefull
Regards JC
 

· Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Hello Hulla
Yes looks similar type of ( difficult ) job , lock entrails are different though.
Sharing information on forums is so important , I was grateful that someone had commented they had a repair by V ,I was encouraged by that and thought if V can so can I , my engineering training is comparable .
Keep posting information and we have power to the People.
Cheers JC
 

· Registered
Joined
·
208 Posts
There is a how to guide on a facebook forum. He goes step by step and even tells you how to do it if your doors are locked shut.
Volvo will fix locks for 300 quid each lock.
Dvla and dvsa are all fully aware of the issue and say do not use the rear doors if you know there is an issue but they're not doing a recall on rear doors. Volvo offer cars of 5 years and younger they'll contribute or do them for free if under 4 years old. I just had one of mine done it was just out of the 4 year grace period and cost me 29 quid over all

Sent from my EML-L09 using Tapatalk
 

· Registered
Joined
·
284 Posts
Crikey, was it Boeing or Chinese Geely took them over? How to undermine a good rock-solid brand in one easy lesson.
Local authority taxi and private hire licensing depts may take a very different view about those rear doors. I'm shocked at the DVSA's decision.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
634 Posts
when I bought one the question was with/without deadlock, and with/without keyless entry. personally I thought all had deadlocking...
Not certain about Volvo, but in general it's often only cars built for the UK market that have deadlocks as standard, to meet the Thatcham security rating requirements. Rest of Europe and other markets they can often be an optional extra..
 
21 - 38 of 38 Posts
Top