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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thought I would put my build thread here as there doesn't seem to be too many people changing out the stereo. With great factory options, that's unsurprising of course. But in Australia (not sure about other countries), there's a huge disincentive to spec up a new car. If you want a new car, you have such greater bargaining power with a stock car that's on the floor, than spec'ing up a new one and then waiting 6 months + for it to arrive. Unfortunately this usually limits you to zero options, and either a black or white car!

Anyway, to cut to the chase, I would have gone the High Performance stereo, but cost and timing would have been way too big, so I'm starting to change out all the speakers, add in an amp, install a sub, and add some sound deadening.

Here's the component list, although things could change as the project progresses:

Focal PS 165F Flax 6.5" component speakers
Alpine PDX-V9 5-channel amp
Seas SW250 10" sub
Dynamat Xtreme door and trunk kits
Alpine hi/low converter
4-gauge wiring kit

I've nearly finished the box. It's a 25 litre sealed box 595mm wide. I'll attach it in the centre/rear to the child restraint hooks with bungee cords. I've made it that size so that if I need to lay a load flat along the floor, it will also fit sideways in the boot. Or I can remove it completely when I need my space back.

I'm interested to see if the Dynamat helps. The car is already very quiet in terms of road noise, so not expecting a night and day difference, but worth trying in any case.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Sorry about the iPhone pics! Just finished all the cutouts I needed, so glued and screwed tonight. Used Max Bond for adhesion, should be set this time tomorrow. Got the carpet and fibrefill today so hopefully attack the carpeting tomorrow. Just need to chamfer the edges to straighten things out before I carpet it.

Sourced some bungee straps that have metal plates at each end drilled out. One end will be bolted to the sub box, the other I attached to some spring-loaded clips so I can remove completely if I need.
 

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Hello!

Nice job! I think that your installation is going to be great! Don't forget to post pics!

I see that you have some knowledge in car audio, could you help me?
Do you know how I can add a subwoofer to a Premium Sound from Harman Kardon?
I really want to add more low frequency power but I don't know which equipment I need and where to connect a subwoofer or amp + subwoofer of hi/low converter + amp + subwoofer.
I looked everywhere for information, but nothing is very clear.

Help me please ;)
Thank in advance!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No problems, happy to help.

Might be slightly different on the High Performance stereo, but with mine there's an amp/dsp under the passenger seat. Someone on this forum kindly identified the pinouts we need to use to pull a speaker-level signal. It's the green connector here, and the wiring is as follows:

1(Grey/Black) & 9(Green/Black) - Left Front
2(Grey) & 10(Green) - Centre Front
3(Yellow/Black) & 11(Violet/Black) - Right Front
4(Grey/Red) & 12(Green/Red) - Left Rear
5(Yellow/Red) & 13(Violet/Red) - Right Rear

For a sub amp, you'll need a left and right signal so you would use #1 and #3 here.

As you've eluded to, you'll either need a mono amp with high level input, or a mono amp plus a LOC (line-out converter). The most difficult part you'll find is the wiring of this. If you're not confident, I'd have a shop do it. Should only be 2 hours' labour. I'm installing mine in the spare wheel cavity to the front/left. It will sit just above the spare tyre, so will still have access. I'm running a 4-gauge wire from the +ve battery terminal, into a fuse, then into the front passenger footwell. There's a nice large grommet there you can fit it through. From there, running it down the side of the car under the carpet and into the boot. From the amp you simply run a short ground cable to the chassis. I'm drilling a new hole to do this, will sand the chassis, then seal it top and bottom (i.e. under the car) with bitumen to ensure it's completely waterproof and won't corrode.

I've gone with a 10" sub because an 8" probably isn't significantly different to the stock system (let alone your High Performance). My enclosure pictured is 25 litres, but you can get slimline 10" subs that only require maybe 15 litres.

So you'll need sub in a box, mono sub amp (preferably Class D for this), wiring kit, and potentially a high/low converter. Let me know if you need any more help!

Oh one thing, I'm assuming that the standard head unit doesn't limit low frequencies to the main speakers (to protect them). It may for example have a high pass filter set to maybe 45Hz. If it does, then the sub isn't going to receive frequencies lower than this. If this happens (fingers crossed it doesn't) then there are only two options. Firstly use an LOC that restores bass (e.g. Audio Control LC2i), or go for an external DSP. I'll let you know when I get to this stage but am fairly confident we'll be ok. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
That looks pretty decent. Frequency response is good down to 20Hz which is great. One other alternative around the same price is the Rockford Fosgate one. Its wedge shape with the woofer on the flat side is similar to the one I designed for the car, so will use the boot space a little better in the V40.

For power, what I mean is you can't just wire it into the existing car power loom or a spare 12v outlet. They can't supply enough current. You need to connect it all the way to the battery terminal itself. For that powered sub, you would want to run an 8 gauge wiring kit. You'll need the positive side to run from the positive terminal of your car battery, into a fuse holder with a fuse value dictated by the amp you choose (or amp/sub you choose). Then it runs into your amplified sub. The negative needs to be also 8 gauge, and runs from the powered sub, to the nearest point you can find on the chassis of the car. Ie no need to run it back to the battery because your entire chassis runs the ground of your electrical system. The other thing you're going to need is a trigger wire, which is something that tells the sub to turn on (otherwise you'll kill your battery). You can decide where to run this from. It can be from the fusebox, or something that maybe just turns on when the car does (e.g. mine has a 12v outlet in the boot, so you could take it from there).

The Infinity has a speaker level input so you won't need an LOC which is good. So just run a set of 4 wires from the plug I showed you (you'll need to splice it) to the sub.

Fairly complex but will be well worth the effort.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Oh man the JBL might just fit, but the height is 371.4mm. I measured about 365mm in mine to clear the parcel shelf so you might find it's a tad too tall if you have the two-level floor. The Infinity also goes to 20Hz, this one only to 35Hz.

If you want to be able to remove it fast, you're going to need to get creative. Speaker inputs will be a standard plug you could remove, but power is usually screwed in (so you couldn't leave it loose when unscrewed, as it may short out). You could theoretically connect an IEC plug if the amp rating is high enough (maybe 40A? maybe more?). That's all I can think of.
 

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No problems, happy to help.

Might be slightly different on the High Performance stereo, but with mine there's an amp/dsp under the passenger seat. Someone on this forum kindly identified the pinouts we need to use to pull a speaker-level signal. It's the green connector here, and the wiring is as follows:

1(Grey/Black) & 9(Green/Black) - Left Front
2(Grey) & 10(Green) - Centre Front
3(Yellow/Black) & 11(Violet/Black) - Right Front
4(Grey/Red) & 12(Green/Red) - Left Rear
5(Yellow/Red) & 13(Violet/Red) - Right Rear
The Premium (Harmon Kardon) and High Performance audio systems both use the AUD module under the left front seat. The main difference is that the High Performance system does not have the Centre speaker fitted (and probably doesn't have the 5.1 DSP software enabled to use it).

For a sub amp, you'll need a left and right signal so you would use #1 and #3 here.

As you've eluded to, you'll either need a mono amp with high level input, or a mono amp plus a LOC (line-out converter).

Oh one thing, I'm assuming that the standard head unit doesn't limit low frequencies to the main speakers (to protect them). It may for example have a high pass filter set to maybe 45Hz. If it does, then the sub isn't going to receive frequencies lower than this.
I think the Centre speaker (in the centre of the dash) on the Premium system may act as a bass driver, in which case you could try hooking the line level converter or mono sub amp up to that output (pins 2 and 10 of the 16-way plug on the AUD module). These connections are also available at pins 33 and 34 of the main dashboard interconnect 43-way connector on the firewall in the passenger footwell.

The ironic thing is that in larger Volvos the Premium sound systems have a seperate SUB module that is fed digitally by the IAM module (the head unit, which is common across most of Volvo's range now) in the same way as the AUD module via the MOST optical bus in the car.

If you have DAB radio, the V40 already has a MOST optical link and power connection in the boot area (where the DAB module is), so it should have been relatively easy (basically a loom extension for the power and MOST connections, and the software to enable it) for Volvo to add the SUB module as part of the Premium system on the V40.
 

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If you want to be able to remove it fast, you're going to need to get creative. Speaker inputs will be a standard plug you could remove, but power is usually screwed in (so you couldn't leave it loose when unscrewed, as it may short out). You could theoretically connect an IEC plug if the amp rating is high enough (maybe 40A? maybe more?). That's all I can think of.
I'd suggest something like an Anderson Multipole SB50 connector, as used on UPS battery packs. Their minimum rating is 50A per pole, they are keyed and the contacts are touch-proof:
http://www.andersonpower.com/products/multipole-connectors.html

A cheaper option may be to use Anderson Powerpole PP45 connectors (used by RC modellers for the drive battery connectors on electric models). The PP45 is rated to up to 55A, is touch-proof like it's bigger brother and the individual plugs are stackable. We use these in work for 50V 20A DC power feeds on telecoms equipment.
http://www.andersonpower.com/products/singlepole-connectors.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Apologies - posted a few updates on the wrong thread! So just batching up back here to keep on track:

Carpeting done, and wired my Furutech XLR jack ready to install with 12AWG Furutech wire. Sub cable wiring - using grommets through the 2-level floor struts to keep it tidy. Box is complete, giving it a few days' curing time before installing the driver and grill.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Dry run in the boot as it cures. Survived my spirited driving today . Pretty impressed at how little cargo space it takes up. Moving on to the rest of the car shortly, and hope to be all up and running by next Sat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Donesky! 17.2kg all up (7 for the sub, 10 for the box). Not a huge tax on overall weight. The amp weighs bugger-all, so total system weight I can't see being more than 22kg.

Amp and speakers in on Friday, will report back once those and the sub are tuned in.
 

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Oh very goofd job! Awesome!

For me, my amp/DSP (1st picture) under the driver seat (Switzerland, on the road we drive on the right hand side^^) is not like your amp/DSP, I think it's because there is a Harman Kardon amp (Premium sound system).
Do you know if the blue connector is for a sub? Do you think that it's possible to add easly a sub?

Indeed, there is the DAB module (2nd picture) in the boot area. But the MOST is a network, and I think there is like a ethernet network, every element has an address and it's not possible to add a new one without programming.
 

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Oh very goofd job! Awesome!

For me, my amp/DSP (1st picture) under the driver seat (Switzerland, on the road we drive on the right hand side^^) is not like your amp/DSP, I think it's because there is a Harman Kardon amp (Premium sound system).
Do you know if the blue connector is for a sub? Do you think that it's possible to add easly a sub?

Indeed, there is the DAB module (2nd picture) in the boot area. But the MOST is a network, and I think there is like a ethernet network, every element has an address and it's not possible to add a new one without programming.
Yes, the AUD module is uses different hardware for the High Performance and Premium sound systems - the Premium one has a 5-channel amp versus the 4 channel amp on the High Performance, and there will obviously be software differences between them as well (Premium audio supports Dolby 5.1, for example).

The 'Premium' AUD module is used on a number of other Volvo models, and it has a few different part numbers depending on the software level. One of these is for models fitted with a SUB subwoofer module, so it may modify the bass output of the AUD module to cover the frequency crossover between it and the SUB module. The SUB module is fed directly from the IAM via the MOST Bus though, so the blue connector is unlikely to have a subwoofer output on it (some of the other models that use the Premium AUD module have DVB receivers and rear seat infotainment as options, so it might be something to do with that).

The MOST Bus is a network (it is arranged in a loop between the modules, similar to Token Ring or SDH), with the IAM/ICM acting as the controller. The IAM and AUD module hardware used in the V40 is common to other Volvo models (and some JLR and Ford models) that can be fitted with the SUB module, but the software version in the V40 presumably has the feature disabled. The VIDA system can be used to run MOST diagnostics and new modules can be added to the loop (this is how the DABM retrofit is done), but the software in the V40's audio system probably doesn't support the SUB module.

My point was that although Volvo have all the hardware and software available to have added support for the SUB module to the V40, for some reason they chose not to (lack of boot space, maybe?). The previous incarnation of the S40/V40/C30 had an optional SUB module available, after all.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Hey Buzby, do you know what the power output would be in my stock unit? I'm tossing up whether to run my front and rears off the new 5-ch amp, or keep the rears on the factory amp and then bi-wire (i.e. run active) the fronts to remove the passive crossover network.
 

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Hey Buzby, do you know what the power output would be in my stock unit? I'm tossing up whether to run my front and rears off the new 5-ch amp, or keep the rears on the factory amp and then bi-wire (i.e. run active) the fronts to remove the passive crossover network.
The only reference I can find is theVolvo Cars Germany website, which lists the High Performance Audio system as 4 x 45 Watts (doesn't say if it's RMS or Peak though).
 
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