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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Cheers. Surprised how good the stock system is sounding to be honest. It's missing some bass, but otherwise is very punchy and low in distortion.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
All done. More pics tomorrow or the next (busy!). The system is sounding really punchy, but lacking the extension in the very bottom end. I have a sneaking suspicion that Volvo are applying a high pass filter across the board to protect the factory speakers. I could be wrong, but I expected more extension from a 10". I'm not sure how to test my theory, perhaps will visit the local audio shop and demo a giant dual 12" bandpass box. This should well and truly answer the question!

If there is a high pass filter, then we have issues. I either need to try bass restoration with an Audio Control LC2i, or try to tap into a digital signal and then run a DSP.

HHhhhmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.
 
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I have a sneaking suspicion that Volvo are applying a high pass filter across the board to protect the factory speakers. I could be wrong, but I expected more extension from a 10". I'm not sure how to test my theory,
That might be the case - the AUD module seems to have different part numbers depending on the car model it's fitted to, so they could be tuning the frequency range of the output to suit the speaker installation of each model in the firmware.

If there is a high pass filter, then we have issues. I either need to try bass restoration with an Audio Control LC2i, or try to tap into a digital signal and then run a DSP..
Hacking into the MOST network to extract and decode the digital audio stream that goes to the AUD and SUB modules hasn't been done yet, as far as I'm aware. Dension and GROM have come closest, by reverse engineering the control protocol and output stream format used by the optional CD changer to produce their Aux/USB/iPod Input modules.

Even so, the Dension and GROM modules currently only work with cars that use the previous generation of audio system hardware, and also require a visit to a Volvo dealer to have the 'Disable MOST Security' software application downloaded. This is something dealers are very reluctant do under normal circumstances, as it also allows second-hand modules from other cars to be used on the MOST network (instead of buying replacement new ones from Volvo).

You could try taking the IAM, Premium AUD, DAB and SUB modules from another current Volvo model that has a SUB module as an option (like the S60/V60), though you have to deal with replicating the extra wiring and MOST optic fibre cabling, and of cousre the problem of getting the modules coded to the car.
 

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The mObridge is the only one I've seen that is supposed to be compatible, but doesn't elude to the security side of things.

http://www.mobridge.us/compatibility/vehicles/15177/15183/15196/15198
I'd forgotten about mObridge, mostly due to the length of time it's taken them to get their solution working on Volvos. Fair play to them, though it would be nice if they had some documentation other than a generic install manual that doesn't even mention Volvos.

It will almost certainly require the 'Disable MOST Security' download to work though, as you are replacing the AUD module in the MOST network, and the ICM and CEM will have stored it's serial number. What usually happens if you replace a node on the MOST bus with a device whose serial is unknown or doesn't match is that the ICM outputs a fault code and shuts down the system.

On pre-Sensus Volvos it seems to have been a bit hit and miss as to whether the MOST security was enabled or not. From what I've read from people fitting the GROM or Dension boxes on the current Sensus-based models it seems to be always enabled. When enquiring about having it disabled the dealers have a stock response that Volvo give them specific instructions not to let cars leave the workshop with it disabled.

If that's the response you get (and it's probably best to confirm this with mObridge and your local Volvo dealer first), it might be better to approach an independent Volvo specialist who has a VIDA terminal and login to see if they will do it (though they still have to order software downloads from their 'parent' main dealer).

Here in the UK there is a car audio specialist down in Surrey who have full VIDA access and seem to be pretty flexible over what they can do for Volvos - maybe there is somewhere like that local to you?
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
More insightful stuff, cheers. Our dealers are completely useless unfortunately. I asked if they could find out about the high pass filter (if it existed) and they just shrug their shoulders and ask me to dumb it down for them. C'mon. I said I could email them and they could just forward it on to Volvo perhaps, but that seems too hard.

I think I'm not going to risk accessing the MOST bus, and instead might try an Audison Bit Ten DSP. This has a function that can de-EQ the factory signal from the speaker level outputs, then apply a 31-band EQ and time align the outputs. I didn't intend to go this far, but you know what it's like.

Just for laughs, I tried my 18" carbon fibre subwoofer in the boot. And yes, it pumped. It was everything I wanted and more! But I use it daily at home, so a bit of a hassle to take in and out every time lol.
 

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Ha ha! like the paving slab its mounted on! Reminds me of putting a few of those in my old 320D to try and get some more traction in snow and ice :D
 

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Holy Crap Spruce Moose!!
I reckon you must have a crop duster parked in your driveway with the words "Fly Spray" painted on the fuselage :surprise:

Can't argue with the underlying premise though...
Go hard or go home :wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Lol - that's just to protect the boot from the 3 sharp spikes that are fixed to the base of the sub. It means business, that's for sure. Rated down to 10Hz!!

But to be serious, I'm not a spring chicken any more and I don't listen loudly very often. I think that because I listen at lower levels, I crave the bass to be right (i.e. to be present) even more so, because that's what you usually lose first when you turn the volume down.

We'll get there....
 

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How did this project end? I'm very keen on getting something similar like this done myself. I as well have the standard stereo.
Basically I'm curious to how you in the end pulled out the signal for the amplifier, did you find the signal to be clean (no filters by default to remove low freq's etc).
I have asked my dealer if they could be kind and set the MOST sec to disabled, but I guess thats going to be a dead end :)

EDIT: one more thing, did those 6,5" fit directly where the original speakers where or did you make the mounting?

-Helge
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Hey Helge,

I should update the thread! It's still a work in progress.

Focals fit in the speaker slots but used MDF spacer rings just to ensure every hole lined up. I took the signal from the speaker out under the passenger seat, into my amp in the boot. The sub driver I used hadn't seen any signal for about 3 years so has taken some weeks to loosen up.

Overall the sound is average to be honest. The signal is clearly being attenuated at lower frequencies. I've also tested the setup with my 18" sub to ensure it's not the 10" I'm using. There are also boomy frequencies that I can't attenuate with the factory 5-band EQ. And so I'm going to be getting an Audison Bit-10 installed and calibrated in the next few weeks. This takes the factory signal, and basically de-equalises it, then you can apply EQ from there as you see fit.

The sub has been fantastic in terms of modularity. It's in and out a lot, and so the harness system has worked a treat.

One thing I'll say about the main speakers - the stock Volvo speakers are very good for factory speakers. They actually have a better mid-bass than these Focals I used. The mid isn't as sweet, and the top not as smooth, but they're punchier. If I was starting again I'd probably leave the speakers and allocate cash to the DSP instead.

Also, I haven't noticed much noise reduction from the Dynamat in the doors. I think they're very well insulated from the factory, and that the majority of road noise is probably coming from the tyres. I may try some in the footwell to see if it helps.

More updates once the DSP is in action!
 

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Yeah, im quite impressed with the sound of the default speakers indeed. I THINK I might have been happy with being able to cut the frequency a bit higher on those (remove some bass, let them play a bit louder on mid+high) and reroute lower freq's to a monoblock and a couple of 12"'s ( yes I love bass :) ).
I'll be following your thread and see what you figure out in the end ;)

EDIT: talked to my dealer today, MOST security disabled is an option. So I'll have a look in to that as well :)
I assume this will be a better option rather than using a speaker out + hi/low converter, or?

-Helge
 

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Thought I would put my build thread here as there doesn't seem to be too many people changing out the stereo. With great factory options, that's unsurprising of course. But in Australia (not sure about other countries), there's a huge disincentive to spec up a new car. If you want a new car, you have such greater bargaining power with a stock car that's on the floor, than spec'ing up a new one and then waiting 6 months + for it to arrive. Unfortunately this usually limits you to zero options, and either a black or white car!

Anyway, to cut to the chase, I would have gone the High Performance stereo, but cost and timing would have been way too big, so I'm starting to change out all the speakers, add in an amp, install a sub, and add some sound deadening.

Here's the component list, although things could change as the project progresses:

Focal PS 165F Flax 6.5" component speakers
Alpine PDX-V9 5-channel amp
Seas SW250 10" sub
Dynamat Xtreme door and trunk kits
Alpine hi/low converter
4-gauge wiring kit

I've nearly finished the box. It's a 25 litre sealed box 595mm wide. I'll attach it in the centre/rear to the child restraint hooks with bungee cords. I've made it that size so that if I need to lay a load flat along the floor, it will also fit sideways in the boot. Or I can remove it completely when I need my space back.

I'm interested to see if the Dynamat helps. The car is already very quiet in terms of road noise, so not expecting a night and day difference, but worth trying in any case.
Hi there, thanks for the thread. I was wondering do you know the dimensions of the speaker hole in V40's front doors? i.e. how big a speaker can one fit in the front doors. I see you plan to use PS165F and I found that its mounting depth is 72,5. I guess you are certain you can fit those inside the doors. I am looking at ESX QE-6.2C speakers for my car, and those should be a bit more shallow - 61 mm if ESX's webpage is right. and how about the tweeters, is it a problem to fit them in the designated place? is there ample room under V40's tweeter grille?
 

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Hi All, I know I am dragging up an old thread, but I am looking to install an underseat sub into my 2016 V40, i previously had this in a celica and spliced into cables so that isnt a problem.

The only thing that is confusing me here is where I would find the remote cable for the amp ? I cant seem to work out on the wiring which cable this would be, or where I can run this to?

Any help would be greatly recieved!
 

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Thought I would put my build thread here as there doesn't seem to be too many people changing out the stereo. With great factory options, that's unsurprising of course. But in Australia (not sure about other countries), there's a huge disincentive to spec up a new car. If you want a new car, you have such greater bargaining power with a stock car that's on the floor, than spec'ing up a new one and then waiting 6 months + for it to arrive. Unfortunately this usually limits you to zero options, and either a black or white car!

Anyway, to cut to the chase, I would have gone the High Performance stereo, but cost and timing would have been way too big, so I'm starting to change out all the speakers, add in an amp, install a sub, and add some sound deadening.

Here's the component list, although things could change as the project progresses:

Focal PS 165F Flax 6.5" component speakers
Alpine PDX-V9 5-channel amp
Seas SW250 10" sub
Dynamat Xtreme door and trunk kits
Alpine hi/low converter
4-gauge wiring kit

I've nearly finished the box. It's a 25 litre sealed box 595mm wide. I'll attach it in the centre/rear to the child restraint hooks with bungee cords. I've made it that size so that if I need to lay a load flat along the floor, it will also fit sideways in the boot. Or I can remove it completely when I need my space back.

I'm interested to see if the Dynamat helps. The car is already very quiet in terms of road noise, so not expecting a night and day difference, but worth trying in any case.
How was the end result? Is it worth it to upgrade from high performance to focal?
 

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No problems, happy to help.

Might be slightly different on the High Performance stereo, but with mine there's an amp/dsp under the passenger seat. Someone on this forum kindly identified the pinouts we need to use to pull a speaker-level signal. It's the green connector here, and the wiring is as follows:

1(Grey/Black) & 9(Green/Black) - Left Front
2(Grey) & 10(Green) - Centre Front
3(Yellow/Black) & 11(Violet/Black) - Right Front
4(Grey/Red) & 12(Green/Red) - Left Rear
5(Yellow/Red) & 13(Violet/Red) - Right Rear

For a sub amp, you'll need a left and right signal so you would use #1 and #3 here.

As you've eluded to, you'll either need a mono amp with high level input, or a mono amp plus a LOC (line-out converter). The most difficult part you'll find is the wiring of this. If you're not confident, I'd have a shop do it. Should only be 2 hours' labour. I'm installing mine in the spare wheel cavity to the front/left. It will sit just above the spare tyre, so will still have access. I'm running a 4-gauge wire from the +ve battery terminal, into a fuse, then into the front passenger footwell. There's a nice large grommet there you can fit it through. From there, running it down the side of the car under the carpet and into the boot. From the amp you simply run a short ground cable to the chassis. I'm drilling a new hole to do this, will sand the chassis, then seal it top and bottom (i.e. under the car) with bitumen to ensure it's completely waterproof and won't corrode.

I've gone with a 10" sub because an 8" probably isn't significantly different to the stock system (let alone your High Performance). My enclosure pictured is 25 litres, but you can get slimline 10" subs that only require maybe 15 litres.

So you'll need sub in a box, mono sub amp (preferably Class D for this), wiring kit, and potentially a high/low converter. Let me know if you need any more help!

Oh one thing, I'm assuming that the standard head unit doesn't limit low frequencies to the main speakers (to protect them). It may for example have a high pass filter set to maybe 45Hz. If it does, then the sub isn't going to receive frequencies lower than this. If this happens (fingers crossed it doesn't) then there are only two options. Firstly use an LOC that restores bass (e.g. Audio Control LC2i), or go for an external DSP. I'll let you know when I get to this stage but am fairly confident we'll be ok. Good luck!
Probably weird to bring this up after 6 years but does anyone know what corresponding cable is + and - on what side? I'm interested in rear left and rear right. Thanks
 
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