[anixie]

320.000 km ?????
**** that gives hope for my car

 

[LateStarter]

Bloody H*ll!! 320,000kms??!! :surprise:
What was the first owners name?? Gulliver?
Impressive!

 

[HydraC]

320.000 km ?????
**** that gives hope for my car

Bloody H*ll!! 320,000kms??!! :surprise:
What was the first owners name?? Gulliver?
Impressive!

I bought the car a year ago from a car dealer, it had 280000km on it back then.
I even called the previous owner asking about the car. He told me he had driven on the highway every day between big cities in Finland, he used the car for work.
He ended up buying a new V40 with the 2 litre D2 and automatic gearbox and gave this old 1.6 litre D2 manual in exchange.

Car had 321199km on it yday as I was driving home from work:
Instagram link (first photo at the moment with snow)

 

[buzby]

Did my rear brakes today (£120 for genuine Volvo disc and pads off ebay). The wheels were well seized on - slackened off the nuts and drove round the speedbumps on the estate and that broke the bond, but still needed a rubber mallet to help them off. This was down to very heavy aluminium corrosion on the wheel and hub centre bores, which needed to be scraped and wirebrushed off (both surfaces got a coating of Copaslip before reassembly. The discs were also rusted on, so the hub faces got the same treatment.

The torque settings for the bolts are:
Slider bolts (7mm hex wrench or socket) - 30Nm
Caliper carrier bolts (13mm spanner or socket) - 70Nm
Wheel nuts (19mm) - Pass 1 20Nm, Pass 2 130Nm in a 'star' pattern (line one stud up to the top centre, then number them 1 to 5 clockwise. The tightening pattern is 1-3-5-2-4).

The discs are held on by a large countersunk Torx screw, which is pretty tight. Ideally you would loosen this with the handbrake on, but you can't really do that when you are doing them 1 at a time using a jack. I wedged the shaft of the mallet between one of the studs on the hub and the ground to counter the turning force from loosening the screw.

The lower caliper carrier bolt is difficult to access due to a reinforcing gusset on the hub being in the way of the head of the ratchet when trying to get a socket on (I had to use a spanner and the mallet to get them going too, as they were partially seized). There is a hole provided in the backplate of the hub carrier though to allow you to get to them with an extension bar on the socket (the head of the ratchet ends up resting on the bump stop).

You need a right-handed (clockwise) caliper windback tool with an adapter that has the pins at 20mm spacing. I got a universal set from ebay for £12 that had both left and right handed tools, a couple of backing plates and a swathe of different adapters.

The only other thing to watch out for is that the pads are handed - the inner pad has a butterfly anti-rattle spring on the top of it, the outer pad just has a locating tab. Volvo pack them in pairs in the box, so make sure you use one of each, and don't just take the first pair like I did, and then notice when installing the pads on the second wheel!

 

[24617]

Did you bother with anti-seize or anything on the pad clips? I got my pads replaced due to squeaking and I think it might be coming back. Was thinking about taking everything apart, cleaning things up and sticking anti-seize on the appropriate surfaces and maybe medium thread locker on the fixings (not wheel bolts) to see if that helps. Otherwise new discs would have to be the next option.

Also if you somehow messed up and the rear brakes weren't working, would it be immediately obvious from test driving? Apart from something detaching or exploding I'm not sure if I'd notice necessarily (no frame of reference though!).

 

[buzby]

Did you bother with anti-seize or anything on the pad clips? I got my pads replaced due to squeaking and I think it might be coming back. Was thinking about taking everything apart, cleaning things up and sticking anti-seize on the appropriate surfaces and maybe medium thread locker on the fixings (not wheel bolts) to see if that helps. Otherwise new discs would have to be the next option.

Also if you somehow messed up and the rear brakes weren't working, would it be immediately obvious from test driving? Apart from something detaching or exploding I'm not sure if I'd notice necessarily (no frame of reference though!).

The pads already have an anti-squeal soft plastic backing on them. The only place VIDA shows putting any lubricant is using silicone grease on the channels on the camiper carrier the pad locating tabs slide in. My silicone grease is packed away with my bike stuff, so I used Copaslip there too (whatever yuo use will be washed away the next time you take the car to the jetwash anyway).

You can tell if the handbrake is working after a rear brake change at least. For a while after you first change them you can see the marks the pads are leaving on the disc surface too so you can tell if they are working. It does take a fair few miles for them to bed in though.

My rear brakes were beginning to squeal occasionally. When I had it serviced last week they said the rear brakes were 85% used and the fronts were about 75% used (I measured the discs today and they were down to 9mm from 11mm new). The rear brakes surprised me as it's only done 30000 miles. I have read somewhere though that with the electronic brake control it uses the rear brakes a bit more, particularly when braking gently. It's the first car I've had where the rear brakes have needed changing before the front, and it's needed new discs on the first change.

When I do the fronts, I'm thinking of doing the 278mm to 300mm conversion

 

[HydraC]

This thread really made my day. Thank you.

Just had left rear brake pads go bad and the disc is ruined at the same time. Decided to change all discs and pads while I'm at it, the car has already had >320000km (V40 D2 -13)

Struggled to find any info on the actual size of the front discs, first found out they're either 300 or 320. Then I even measured the disc with a normal tape measure and came to the conclusion it's smaller than 300.
Turns out it's 278 as I found out here in this thread.

Checked some regularly used local shops (Finland) and their selection is really bad. One claims they don't sell any brake parts, one sells only pads and rear discs. One sells original brake pads but no discs. The original front pads were priced 102€ and rear pads 88,5€. Seems really expensive.

Ended up ordering the parts from Germany:
ATE 278mm front disc 38,36€
ATE 280mm rear disc 23,64€

ATE front pads Ceramic 53,30€
ATE rear pads 24,30€

The normal ATE front pads would have been cheaper, 34,78€: (but decided to give the ceramic ones a go)
https://profiteile.de/bremsbelagsatz-scheibenbremse-13-0460-7193-2-3

Just waiting for them to arrive now :smile2:

Brakes installed now, funny how many of the shops state that the front 278mm discs aren't compatible with Volvo V40.
Even the package says on it they are meant for Focus III and C-Max.

Rear 280mm discs package listed Focus II, C-Max and Volvo V40.

Here are photos of the brakes:
New Ate brakes installed

Car had 322890km on it when the brakes were changed :smile2:

 

[24617]

Brakes installed now, funny how many of the shops state that the front 278mm discs aren't compatible with Volvo V40.
Even the package says on it they are meant for Focus III and C-Max.

Rear 280mm discs package listed Focus II, C-Max and Volvo V40.

Here are photos of the brakes:
New Ate brakes installed

Car had 322890km on it when the brakes were changed :smile2:

Your calipers are black like mine! I thought I'd destroyed mine with my wheel cleaner but seems they've always been black (instead of silver).

 

[Cyrus Au Yeung]

I am thinking whether the focus 336mm brake kit would fit into our MY14 T4 v40?

currently i have upgraded mine from the 300 to 320mm one but still trying to look for a larger brake kit. Any ideas? Thanks!

 

[chiptivo]

Hi Guys, Sorry for bumping this.

I did read that Buzby and others are looking at increasing the side of the front brakes disks and pads when they are next due as it is a cheap and easy upgrade.

How does this effect insurance, and do they need informing. I would say they do, but not too sure?

Effectively, you are making the car safer, but I guess their systems would see this as an upgrade and a mandatory increase in premium?

 

[HydraC]

This thread really made my day. Thank you.

Just had left rear brake pads go bad and the disc is ruined at the same time. Decided to change all discs and pads while I'm at it, the car has already had >320000km (V40 D2 -13)

Struggled to find any info on the actual size of the front discs, first found out they're either 300 or 320. Then I even measured the disc with a normal tape measure and came to the conclusion it's smaller than 300.
Turns out it's 278 as I found out here in this thread.

Checked some regularly used local shops (Finland) and their selection is really bad. One claims they don't sell any brake parts, one sells only pads and rear discs. One sells original brake pads but no discs. The original front pads were priced 102€ and rear pads 88,5€. Seems really expensive.

Ended up ordering the parts from Germany:
ATE 278mm front disc 38,36€
ATE 280mm rear disc 23,64€

ATE front pads Ceramic 53,30€
ATE rear pads 24,30€

The normal ATE front pads would have been cheaper, 34,78€: (but decided to give the ceramic ones a go)
https://profiteile.de/bremsbelagsatz-scheibenbremse-13-0460-7193-2-3

Just waiting for them to arrive now :smile2:

Just a quick update, the ceramic pads in front seem to work really good. No visible dust on rims either. :smile2:
Rear rims have black brake dust on them as normal pads there.

 

[robg]

Sorry for the bump again - Have ordered the ATE discs and pads for my V40 D2 and will change them over the Christmas break :grin2:

You need a right-handed (clockwise) caliper windback tool with an adapter that has the pins at 20mm spacing. I got a universal set from ebay for £12 that had both left and right handed tools, a couple of backing plates and a swathe of different adapters.

Buzby (or anyone who's done this), which universal set did you end up getting? Have trawled through a load on eBay and Amazon but can't seem to confirm if they have the correct adapter..!

 

[stuart s]

The pads already have an anti-squeal soft plastic backing on them. The only place VIDA shows putting any lubricant is using silicone grease on the channels on the camiper carrier the pad locating tabs slide in. My silicone grease is packed away with my bike stuff, so I used Copaslip there too (whatever yuo use will be washed away the next time you take the car to the jetwash anyway).

You can tell if the handbrake is working after a rear brake change at least. For a while after you first change them you can see the marks the pads are leaving on the disc surface too so you can tell if they are working. It does take a fair few miles for them to bed in though.

My rear brakes were beginning to squeal occasionally. When I had it serviced last week they said the rear brakes were 85% used and the fronts were about 75% used (I measured the discs today and they were down to 9mm from 11mm new). The rear brakes surprised me as it's only done 30000 miles. I have read somewhere though that with the electronic brake control it uses the rear brakes a bit more, particularly when braking gently. It's the first car I've had where the rear brakes have needed changing before the front, and it's needed new discs on the first change.

When I do the fronts, I'm thinking of doing the 278mm to 300mm conversion

Also been told the rear brakes wear more than the front. Told the auto brake uses the rear, and prevents the front of the car forever lowering under breaking.

 

[buzby]

Sorry for the bump again - Have ordered the ATE discs and pads for my V40 D2 and will change them over the Christmas break :grin2:

Buzby (or anyone who's done this), which universal set did you end up getting? Have trawled through a load on eBay and Amazon but can't seem to confirm if they have the correct adapter..!

It was a generic 22-piece set I got, with both RH and LH windback tools in it. The link insn't valid any more, but this looks rhe same from the pictures:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VonHaus-...ack-Tool-Set/282337948559?epid=521356352&hash=item41bca7338f:g:MDgAAOSwLEtYiJbq

Also been told the rear brakes wear more than the front. Told the auto brake uses the rear, and prevents the front of the car forever lowering under breaking.

I don't think it uses the rears more than the fronts, but it does use the rears a lot more than previous cars I've had and with them being comparatively small and thin solid discs it means they will wear a lot quicker.. I have noticed that under heavy breaking you can feel it grabbing at the rear and the shift in the weight transfer

 

[robg]

Thanks, have ordered and will give it a go...

 

[chiptivo]

Whenever I changed my pads on my old S60, I just put a large flat screwdriver in between the old pads and disk (Protecting the disk) and opened the caliper that way?

If this a frownd upon practice, I've not seen these rewind tools before?

 

[buzby]

Whenever I changed my pads on my old S60, I just put a large flat screwdriver in between the old pads and disk (Protecting the disk) and opened the caliper that way?

If this a frownd upon practice, I've not seen these rewind tools before?

That works (on the front calipers, at least), but it's not ideal as there's the risk of getting the piston off-axis as you push it back because you are only applying force on one side of the piston, and that can damage the seals or bore. You can't do that on the rear calipers though, as there is a sprung threaded adjuster inside the piston that keeps the pads a constant distance away from the disc as they wear so the handbrake pull stays constant.

These are the parts from a Mazda MX5 rear caliper, but the V40's are basically the same - the handbrake cable pulls the lever which has a cam on the end of it's axle. The cam pushes against the adjuster rod, which has a threaded end that threads into the middle of the piston. There is a spring that fits around the adjuster rod and into piston, so as the pad wears the adjuster gradually unscrews, so the distance the piston moves when the cam is operated remains constant.

To reset the piston and adjuster on a rear caliper you have to rotate the adjuster while applying a clamping force between the piston and caliper, which you can only safely do with a windback tool. If you just try forcing the adjuster back by levering or pushing the piston back into the caliper without rotating it you run the risk of damaging the threads on the adjuster rod or piston. The same windback tool also makes it easier to reset the piston on a normal front caliper too, as it applies force across the whole face of the piston evenly.

 

[chiptivo]

That works (on the front calipers, at least), but it's not ideal as there's the risk of getting the piston off-axis as you push it back because you are only applying force on one side of the piston, and that can damage the seals or bore. You can't do that on the rear calipers though, as there is a sprung threaded adjuster inside the piston that keeps the pads a constant distance away from the disc as they wear so the handbrake pull stays constant.

These are the parts from a Mazda MX5 rear caliper, but the V40's are basically the same - the handbrake cable pulls the lever which has a cam on the end of it's axle. The cam pushes against the adjuster rod, which has a threaded end that threads into the middle of the piston. There is a spring that fits around the adjuster rod and into piston, so as the pad wears the adjuster gradually unscrews, so the distance the piston moves when the cam is operated remains constant.

To reset the piston and adjuster on a rear caliper you have to rotate the adjuster while applying a clamping force between the piston and caliper, which you can only safely do with a windback tool. If you just try forcing the adjuster back by levering or pushing the piston back into the caliper without rotating it you run the risk of damaging the threads on the adjuster rod or piston. The same windback tool also makes it easier to reset the piston on a normal front caliper too, as it applies force across the whole face of the piston evenly.

Wow, Brilliant. I did wonder how the rear hand brake worked with disks.
I'll grab one on ebay for when I change mine in future.
I'm very light on brakes with my driving style, and they look hardly worn (maybe 25% worn) after 24k and 3 years though.

 

[buzby]

Just a heads up - I replaced my front discs and pads today. In the process I also upgraded from the 15"/278mm discs to the 16"/300mm discs. As they use the same hubs, backplates and calipers, all that is required is a replacement pair of the 300mm caliper mounting brackets. If you want to do the sae, the Volvo part number for the bracket is 36002809 (they are ambidextrous - the same bracket is use don both sides).

I think they are about £70 each from Volvo, so I looked elsewhere. Looking round the UK breakers I saw a few, but they are always sold with the caliper attached, which costs more and the extra lump of cast iron costs more to ship too for a part you don't need. Instead, I looked over at Bildelsbasen, a Scandinavian marketplace for used car parts which predictably has a lot of Volvos available there, and the breakers mostly list the calipers and brackets separately.

I bought a pair from one of the sellers there from a 2015 D2 (quite why some D2s have the 278mm discs and others have the 300mm discs I'm not sure). which even with shipping from Sweden cost less than buying a pair of calipers and brackets from a UK breaker (they normally run about £50 each). When they arrived they were quite rusty and most of the zinc plating had come off (I suspect Wonder Wheels may have been used on the car they came off) so they needed a bit of attention from the wire brush in my drill, some emery cloth and then a coat of rust converter gel. Finally I gave them a couple of coats of silver Smoothrite, after masking off the pad bearing surfaces and mounting bosses.

In the meantime, I then ordered a set of 300mm discs and pads from a Newcastle-based Volvo dealer on ebay (after first emailing to explain what I was doing, as they asked for my registration number and were going to send 278mm parts instead).

Today I finally got round to fitting them. Unfortunately I was dodging the showers so didn't get time to take many photos, but here's a comparison of the 278mm and 300mm discs and caliper brackets:

Here's what my old discs and pads looked like after 38k miles of Motorway/A-road driving:

The discs had worn maybe 1.5mm on each side, The pads were probably about 70% worn - I might have got another MOT out of them, but I thought I'd get it done while I was off.

A couple of tips for anyone wanting to have a go at changing discs themselves:
1) Volvo discs come with a new set of caliper bracket bolts, but no new large countersunk Torx bolts that hold the discs onto the hubs. It might be a good idea to get a new pair, as they get very rusty and are tricky to remove without damaging them
2) The caliper bracket bolts are threadlocked and quite difficult to free off. They use an 18mm socket, but I'd recommend getting a decent 18mm ring spanner as well so you can use a mallet to get them moving (it wasn't helped on my case by whoever put the passenger side hub together going overboard with the threadlock - it was everywhere)..

It all seems to be working, but they are still in the bedding-in period at the moment so I've hot given them a hard prod of the pedal yet (I was out earlier doing a couple of laps of the local industrial estate doing gentle clutch-down stops from 40mph to bed them in).

 

[Brigstowe]

In the ‘old days’, automatic gearbox cars would have larger brakes than manual cars, even for the same engine size in order to compensate for a lack of ‘engine braking’ when driving. Might this be the reason for the varying disc sizes? Certainly on my auto T3, the brakes look bigger than my previous manual D2.