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After reading this thread, I saw that in the caliper of my volvo the "300" figure was printed.
So I went ahead and purchased front rotors and pads made by ATE online. Paid 118 euros (with shipping costs).
I can't wait to install them. The Greek volvo dealer asked 350 euros for that.
:)
 

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After reading this thread, I saw that in the caliper of my volvo the "300" figure was printed.
So I went ahead and purchased front rotors and pads made by ATE online. Paid 118 euros (with shipping costs).
I can't wait to install them. The Greek volvo dealer asked 350 euros for that.
:)
 

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Update.
After only 1.0 hour, I managed to install new brake pads and rotors in my V40 D2 MY2015.
After removing the wheel, I removed the top part of the brake caliper (two torx bolts on the back). Then I removed the bracket (two large bolts - you either need a powertool, or a long breaker bar).
The torx bolt which is on the face of the rotor came out relatively easy.
Used a metal brush to remove the rust at the spot where the new rotor would sit.

Happy with my work :) new brakes!
 

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Good. Is your D2 equipped with 17" oem wheels? I'm asking because I noted you have the 300mm rotors. Mine came with 278 version but I have the 16" wheels.
What about pads? Did you chose the standard or the ceramic version from ATE?
 

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Good. Is your D2 equipped with 17" oem wheels? I'm asking because I noted you have the 300mm rotors. Mine came with 278 version but I have the 16" wheels.
I believe the 300mm discs and caliper carrier brackets are fitted to D2 Autos (to compensate for the reduced engine braking) and possibly for cars destined for markets with hot climates.
 

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When I see a parked V40 I keep an eye on the front wheels :)
Of course it's not a rule but usually manual D2 and D3 (most popular engines in my country) pre-facelift versions are fitted with 278mm discs, 300mm ones are quite rare. Automatic and V40 CCs usually have the 300mm. On facelift versions, it more common to see 300mm discs (I guess 50% of the cars I see) and lately the automatic do have the 320mm versions.

@Buzby: can you please confirm me the torque for the front brakes?

Slider bolts (7mm hex) - 30Nm
Caliper carrier bolts (18mm) - 70Nm

Thanks.
 

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I've found the values on VIDA:

FRONT
Slide rail front brake caliper: 28 Nm
Brake caliper in steering arm: 120 Nm
---
REAR
Slide rail rear brake caliper: 35 Nm
Rear brake caliper in longitudinal stay: 70 Nm
 

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Quick Bump - Brake pads on my 278 D2 2015 - The part number of the pads shows 31341300 I'm looking around and can't find Volvo ones with that part number.

Anything similar at Eurocarparts?
 

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Quick Bump - Brake pads on my 278 D2 2015 - The part number of the pads shows 31341300 I'm looking around and can't find Volvo ones with that part number.

Anything similar at Eurocarparts?
I used this seller on eBay:

volvopartstrade

If you message him with your reg he can tell you the exact parts. I bought my pads/dics for my D3 (320mm) for £150.

I then subsequently spent about 4 hours trying to remove one of the T50 disc retaining screws which had been rounded off previously :mad:

Did the other side in about 30 mins flat, which shows how easy it should be :)
 

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I'd like to thank Buzby for all the precious info on the upgrade from 278mm to 300mm front discs!

My V40 1.6 D2 was equipped with the smallest disc brakes so, when it was time to change the front pads, I decided to upgrade from 278mm discs even if they were not so worn. With Buzby's advice I was able to get all the necessary parts and to do the swap myself, thank you!

I opted for original ATE products, choosing 300mm standard discs and ceramic pads. This last choice is due to the fact I always disliked oem pads generating so much dust on the rims! Having already tried other ceramic pads on another car and being satisfied with them, I dediced to give a try to ATE ceramic version.

For the caliper mounting brackets I initially looked at some breakers but they only sold complete front brakes (calipers, discs and brackets) so the price was not interesting. Then I asked to my local Volvo dealer (in Italy) in order to buy new caliper brackets but Volvo has a "strange" policy on such parts because it's mandatory to return your used brackets otherwise they will charge you an extra cost. Volvo price is about 70 EUR for 1 bracket plus 60 EUR as extra fee (always for 1 piece) as I didn't have old 300mm compatible brackets to return, so also this option was not good for me.
I managed to find an online seller from Germany for oem Volvo parts, price for each bracket was 58 EUR plus shipping but looking at customer reviews I noticed too many complaints on their service so I decided to avoid them.
Then I though it was a good idea to search at Bildelsbasen, the Scandinavian marketplace for used parts mentioned by Buzby. I was lucky to find a couple of caliper brackets coming from a T2 model with only 7,000 kms so they were pretty new!

About ATE discs and pads I'd report thay I have bought them from Profiteile, an online seller from Germany with the lowest price I was able to find. This seller was mentioned here by a forum member so I thought it was a good option. I waited 10 days to get my parts but sincerly I was a bit worried not receiving them as communication with this shop is really poor. They claim to ship withing 2-4 working days for available parts but I never received a confirmation message about shipping. I wrote several times to their customer support and they replied only in German with standard useless messages. Only after complaining with them several times and asking for a refund I was able to get a shipping date and a tracking number. As said, parts arrived but I'd not suggest to buy from them.

Now about the 300mm swap: the difference from old 278mm is noticeable as with larger diameter discs, greater is the force available to stop the wheels. I also like ATE ceramic pads as they generate less dust but with the same oem pads feeling. After the initial bedding procedure and gentle braking for the first 500/600 kms, I made a long trip on my last holidays where I drove on highways, mountain and b-roads and the new brakes performed well. Cold bite with the ATE ceramics is good, comparable to original pads and I never experienced fading effects; stopping from higher speeds is better thanks to the greater diameter discs but, in my opinion, ceramic pads are prone to less fade due to more stable "high" temperature coefficient friction.

Now my rear rims are dirtier as they have still the original discs and pads, waiting to be replaced with the rear ATE kit. :)
For everyone interested in doing the swap, please notice you need at least 16" wheels. D2 "eco" and other models with oem 15" rims will not fit with 300mm discs.
 

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Did my rear brakes today (£120 for genuine Volvo disc and pads off ebay). The wheels were well seized on - slackened off the nuts and drove round the speedbumps on the estate and that broke the bond, but still needed a rubber mallet to help them off. This was down to very heavy aluminium corrosion on the wheel and hub centre bores, which needed to be scraped and wirebrushed off (both surfaces got a coating of Copaslip before reassembly. The discs were also rusted on, so the hub faces got the same treatment.

The torque settings for the bolts are:
Slider bolts (7mm hex wrench or socket) - 30Nm
Caliper carrier bolts (13mm spanner or socket) - 70Nm
Wheel nuts (19mm) - Pass 1 20Nm, Pass 2 130Nm in a 'star' pattern (line one stud up to the top centre, then number them 1 to 5 clockwise. The tightening pattern is 1-3-5-2-4).

The discs are held on by a large countersunk Torx screw, which is pretty tight. Ideally you would loosen this with the handbrake on, but you can't really do that when you are doing them 1 at a time using a jack. I wedged the shaft of the mallet between one of the studs on the hub and the ground to counter the turning force from loosening the screw.

The lower caliper carrier bolt is difficult to access due to a reinforcing gusset on the hub being in the way of the head of the ratchet when trying to get a socket on (I had to use a spanner and the mallet to get them going too, as they were partially seized). There is a hole provided in the backplate of the hub carrier though to allow you to get to them with an extension bar on the socket (the head of the ratchet ends up resting on the bump stop).

You need a right-handed (clockwise) caliper windback tool with an adapter that has the pins at 20mm spacing. I got a universal set from ebay for £12 that had both left and right handed tools, a couple of backing plates and a swathe of different adapters.

The only other thing to watch out for is that the pads are handed - the inner pad has a butterfly anti-rattle spring on the top of it, the outer pad just has a locating tab. Volvo pack them in pairs in the box, so make sure you use one of each, and don't just take the first pair like I did, and then notice when installing the pads on the second wheel!
Hey man, but have you tried to remove the rust from your discs ? I have some rust on my car too, and my friend advised me to read and to buy a rust converter, which should remove the rust from my car. I don't know if it's going to work. How do you think, is it possible? Or I should buy new details for my car ?
 

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Hey man, but have you tried to remove the rust from your discs ? I have some rust on my car too, and my friend advised me to read https://toolsspecialist.com/ and to buy a rust converter, which should remove the rust from my car. I don't know if it's going to work. How do you think, is it possible? Or I should buy new details for my car ?
 

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No rust for me on old rotors, there was only a very slight rust on wheel hubs that I easily removed with an iron brush. Although rust on hubs is perfectly normal and harmless, after cleaning them, I used a copper anti-size stuff to prevent rust.

For the disc rotors I'd suggest to remove rust with simple white vinegar, look at this:

Rust converters are too chemically aggressive in my opinion.
 

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Hi all

I need my brake pads and discs replacing, Volvo want approx £350 to replace the front discs and pads :surprise:

Does anyone now what size (diameter) discs and pads to get for a 1.6 D2 (2015 model year). It appears there are 3 sizes as options, 278mm, 300mm, 320mm (according to several websites and Volvo themselves).

Volvo support wont give me a straight answer, does anyone here know?

Thanks in advance
omg im so sorrt
 

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I'd like to thank Buzby for all the precious info on the upgrade from 278mm to 300mm front discs!

My V40 1.6 D2 was equipped with the smallest disc brakes so, when it was time to change the front pads, I decided to upgrade from 278mm discs even if they were not so worn. With Buzby's advice I was able to get all the necessary parts and to do the swap myself, thank you!

I opted for original ATE products, choosing 300mm standard discs and ceramic pads. This last choice is due to the fact I always disliked oem pads generating so much dust on the rims! Having already tried other ceramic pads on another car and being satisfied with them, I dediced to give a try to ATE ceramic version.

For the caliper mounting brackets I initially looked at some breakers but they only sold complete front brakes (calipers, discs and brackets) so the price was not interesting. Then I asked to my local Volvo dealer (in Italy) in order to buy new caliper brackets but Volvo has a "strange" policy on such parts because it's mandatory to return your used brackets otherwise they will charge you an extra cost. Volvo price is about 70 EUR for 1 bracket plus 60 EUR as extra fee (always for 1 piece) as I didn't have old 300mm compatible brackets to return, so also this option was not good for me.
I managed to find an online seller from Germany for oem Volvo parts, price for each bracket was 58 EUR plus shipping but looking at customer reviews I noticed too many complaints on their service so I decided to avoid them.
Then I though it was a good idea to search at Bildelsbasen, the Scandinavian marketplace for used parts mentioned by Buzby. I was lucky to find a couple of caliper brackets coming from a T2 model with only 7,000 kms so they were pretty new!

About ATE discs and pads I'd report thay I have bought them from Profiteile, an online seller from Germany with the lowest price I was able to find. This seller was mentioned here by a forum member so I thought it was a good option. I waited 10 days to get my parts but sincerly I was a bit worried not receiving them as communication with this shop is really poor. They claim to ship withing 2-4 working days for available parts but I never received a confirmation message about shipping. I wrote several times to their customer support and they replied only in German with standard useless messages. Only after complaining with them several times and asking for a refund I was able to get a shipping date and a tracking number. As said, parts arrived but I'd not suggest to buy from them.

Now about the 300mm swap: the difference from old 278mm is noticeable as with larger diameter discs, greater is the force available to stop the wheels. I also like ATE ceramic pads as they generate less dust but with the same oem pads feeling. After the initial bedding procedure and gentle braking for the first 500/600 kms, I made a long trip on my last holidays where I drove on highways, mountain and b-roads and the new brakes performed well. Cold bite with the ATE ceramics is good, comparable to original pads and I never experienced fading effects; stopping from higher speeds is better thanks to the greater diameter discs but, in my opinion, ceramic pads are prone to less fade due to more stable "high" temperature coefficient friction.

Now my rear rims are dirtier as they have still the original discs and pads, waiting to be replaced with the rear ATE kit. :)
For everyone interested in doing the swap, please notice you need at least 16" wheels. D2 "eco" and other models with oem 15" rims will not fit with 300mm discs.
I've quoted this post because it resumes what is the main discussion here: replacement of disc pads and also rotors. Good job mate!
I'm trying to get as much as information i can to do a similar job and this was the perfect thread to read and learn thanks to all that contribute on it.

Firstly my idea is to change brake calipers for the 320mm.
With @buzby and @pure_driver discussion that's clear the replacement is too much for a D2 and the reasons are fair enough for me.
But the question is: 278mm on mine D2 remapped seems to be a weakness. So upgrade to 300mm i need caliper brackets / carriers that i just don't find in any way at all.
It's just easyer to find new calipers and all set of braking system for 320mm then a simple pair of front brackets.

Any suggestions?
 

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I've found the values on VIDA:

FRONT
Slide rail front brake caliper: 28 Nm
Brake caliper in steering arm: 120 Nm
---
REAR
Slide rail rear brake caliper: 35 Nm
Rear brake caliper in longitudinal stay: 70 Nm
Hi is this correct for all v40? - I have a D4 rdes- Just about to replace the rear discs and pad (ATE)
35NM looks high for the pins and 70Nm looks look low for what I assume to be the caliper carrier to hub.
 

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2 weeks back, my dealer did a healthcheck (while replacing the flywheel for the 3rd time), around £800 to replace the front and rear brakes, due to excessively lipped discs. How the car goes from being all green to all red requiring immediate attention in less than 5000 miles is beyond my wildest imagination...
So, Anyone able to confirm which torx size the front disc retaining screw is? clearly i'll be doing the job myself :) should add, its a 2014 with 278 discs
 

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Hi is this correct for all v40? - I have a D4 rdes- Just about to replace the rear discs and pad (ATE)
35NM looks high for the pins and 70Nm looks look low for what I assume to be the caliper carrier to hub.
I've found those values on VIDA. I hope they're correct ;-)
Rear discs are the same on all V40s.
When replacing my front discs (swap from 278 to 300) I've followed the VIDA indications, so far no problems (1.5 years).
 

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I have a 2017 d2 auto gearbox. I realized to my surprise that my front disks are already the 300mm (which is the max with 16”rims).
I am thinking of upgrading the rear ones to 300mm’s, has anyone already done this? Is there a risk of destabalising the break balance under heavy braking? Thanks for your advice
 
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