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Potential Faulty CEM Module - Sidelight isssue

1.3K views 9 replies 4 participants last post by  chiptivo  
#1 · (Edited)
Hi guys,

I've been scratching my head for the last couple of months understanding why only one of the sidelights doesn't work on my 2014 1.6 d2.

I tried everything electrically, testing for voltage (which read about 12v), testing for continuity between the ground pin and a chassis ground, getting a brand new second hand headlight which also didnt work and also super gluing the clips (because they're awful and break easily) so i know for certain that the carrier makes contact and completes the circuit.

I've studied the electrical drawings and have to the conclusion that since the light switch module talks to the CEM via LIN comms which then the CEM requests to turn on the side light via LIN comms (i'm assuming this piggy backs off the 12v as a message carrier) there is a potential issue with the CEM. I also learnt that the headlight unit has a common ground for all of the lights so i can rule out a grounding issue as I wouldnt have anything.

I've brought a special cable which should allow me to connect to the car with VIDA but still waiting for it to come.

Worst case it is a faulty CEM, how would I go about replacing it? Is it possible to clone my current one to a doner one off ebay or would I have to go through the route of a Volvo Dealership.

Are there any other things I should try?
 
#2 ·
You can try disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes, then reconnecting it.

VDash can clone your CEM I think, but at a cost. There is a Facebook group called Volvo Vida Dice & VDash Owners and Advice Group Worldwide where you can probably get more advice.

This video shows CEM cloning using programming software, just to give you an idea of how to remove and replace it. But the cloning involved soldering directly to the PCB. I think it';s possible to back up your CEM and write it to a new module via VDash, but there are several people on the FB group who will know a lot more than me, some who can if necessary connect to your car remotely if you have the necessary equipment and software at your end, but see if they can suggest anything else first.

 
#9 ·
Maybe easier to run a feed from the front position lamp on the opposite side to a make and break relay. Use the wire from the working lamp as a switching signal, and power the other lamp directly from the battery via an appropriate fused connection through the switched side of the relay. I'd use a diode protected relay to protect the position lamp circuit and CEM from voltage spikes during switching. You'd want to use the existing working lamp circuit as the trigger feed to the relay rather than the power source for the opposing bulb, to avoid triggering canbus bulb warnings.