You are not alone!! my 2014 D2 (1.6 ford / cit/ pug lump)is the same, after reversing slowly out of a cul de sac the pedal sticks around 1/2 way down, drive off and its fine. had a clutch, flywheel and cylinder due to screeching noise on bite. Im told by an ex volvo tech that GT85 sprayed up on the return spring is likely to cure it,,,, ill not hold my breath. New Honda Civic anyone!!

 

Likely to be the slave cylinder in the gearbox bellhousing. The return spring trick is a temporary "cure" that dealer techs like to employ as it's a major dismantling job to change the slave cylinder and they probably hope it will last until out of warranty when they can at least make a profit out of fixing it properly

 

My V40 had to have a complete new clutch pedal assembly due to it sticking.
At first you could feel a very slight "notchy" feel under your foot as you pressed the pedal down.
It was like this on and off for a while, but it gradually started to feel worse under the foot, and finally you could feel & hear the point where it was catching.

Apparently the problem was due to a batch of clutch assemblies being poorly manufactured, some part of the mechanism had been poorly welded during manufacture, the weld had been left too proud, causing the pedal to catch on another bit of the mechanism, which then caused the pedal to not fully come back up.

The service manager at my Volvo dealership said they had dealt with a number of V40's with the same issue.
Apparently there was talk of a Volvo call back but I heard nothing.
Mine has been fine since it was changed under warranty.

 

Had the same with mine, Volvo eventually changed the clutch pedal assembly and not had an issue since (2 years at least)

 

Hello all, just bought a 2017 D2 (41,000 miles) and I have the same issue. Only happens when I'm driving/engine is running. Happens at least once a day now.

Booked in to Stirling Volvo (Arnold Clark) on Thursday 19th for investigation.

Here are a couple of videos of what was happening for me.

 

Concentric slave cylinder replacement, with flywheel and clutch cured mine. For about 5 weeks. since then, its been done 3 times, over 8 or 9 visits to the dealer. Mines just hit 41k. If youre within 30 days, reject the car, buy a civic.

 

Mmmmmm, I've had it more than 30 days, it only start doing this 9nce I'd had it about 40 days.
I actually traded in my Civic to get this, had a 125,000 miles on it so it was time swap.

I presume if it never gets fixed, or keeps breaking I'll just not be able to change gear one day.
It never creaks or makes a noise though unlike what some others have said on here.

 

Arnold clark, they seem decent people, hopefully theyll sort it first time for you...

 

Not holding my breath.
But, the warranty is with them and Stirling happens to be the nearest Volvo dealer to me anyway. Just going to see if I can keep it long enough I can trade it in a few years from now.

It seems to me this clutch issue can't be fixed, I've yet to see a single positive outcome anywhere about it.
Initially I thought it was more likely to happen on the older generation or cars, the ones that had the Ford engines in them, as there where more versions of the clutch story online when I looked.

Disappointing as otherwise it's a lovely car to drive and be in.

Just found a new fault this morning, the door mirror indicator light (passenger side) doesn't work, will be adding that to their list for Thursday.

 

the indicator isnt an issue, and youre right about the earlier ford sourced engines being more of a problem! keep us poster after thurdays appointment, hopefully just a minor fix...

 

Will do.
Been doing more reading about master and slave cylinders.
When I bought the car I found that the whole length of the drivers side underneath was covered in an like oil substance (was mentioned in the MOT history too) I couldn't find a leak, I had the car up on axle stands, wheels off, lights in at the back of the engine, even put my GoPro in there and couldn't see anything about a leak anywhere.
I had put it down to perhaps a leaking break fluid line or something had been spilled down there in the past, was quite odd. Now I'm beginning to wonder if this has anything to do with my clutch issue but it's on the opposite side to the the gearbox and like I said down the back of the engine is all clean... very odd.

 

Hi All, This is a paste from a posting on an earlier string on the same subject ; 2015 V40 D2 Sticking Clutch Pedal;

Dear All, Sadly, I discovered this forum in the (nearly) worst possible circumstances. Driving back from Sicily, my recently purchased, low miles (44k) diesel V40 developed the identical symptoms described above. First, the clutch pedal started sticking in the high gears, having to be returned to position by hooking the toe under the pedal. Then, after about 6 hours on the road (mainly motor ways), we were pulling up to a motorway pay station when the clutch failed to disengage the engine fully and I all but had to force the gears down to come to a halt at the pay booth. Pulling away was equally challenging and I stalled twice, to the noisy frustration of the Italians queued behind me. We proceeded to nurse the car to the nearest hotel, which turned out to be a Novotel buried in a warren of unlit and GPS-unrecognisable half-roads in an industrial estate on the outskirts of Covid riddled Rome. We spent an anxious night during which my wife discovered this forum. Thankfully, we have Saga European breakdown cover (never leave home without it-the hidden heroes of this tale). They had the car recovered to the nearest Volvo dealer which, by a stroke of luck, was a half an hour walk away. The following morning, Volvo Rome took a look and then the mechanic ushered me in to see the damage. First, he pointed out oil leaks around the clutch. Then, he showed me the infamous slave cylinder, confirming it was the defective plastic one mentioned in this string. He said it was finished and the consequent oil leak would also require investigation. Provisional estimate of 10 hours' work. We opted for recovery to the garage that sold us the car at Saga's expense and they then flew us home on a fully rammed Alitalia flight. We are now in anxious quarantine awaiting possible consequences. The car was bought used and is in vendor warranty so we remain hopeful of a happy outcome. My problem is that I can find no evidence of a happy outcome in this string. I would appreciate recommendations on what needs to be done to fully repair this car.

 

sounds like a good result... bet the flywheel is on the list of replaced items

 

Had a fumble about online trying to work out what may have been changed, this kit which has the clutch, flywheel and control cylinder

Genuine Volvo V40 Clutch and Duall Mass Flywheel And Control Cylinder | eBay UK

THIS IS A DMF FLYWHEEL.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

yep, thats the list of bits... the 4th job on mine just required the flywheel, as nothing else was damaged or contaminated, the previous repairs, well attempted repairs, had the 3 pieces together

 

My two cents (with my bad English, sorry for that): I purchased a MY2014 D2 with 95k km earlier this year and I noticed the infamous clutch moan. Long story short, I have it changed (along with the double mass flywheel, according to the invoice) at the local Volvo service under warranty and it looked like the problem was finally gone (late June). Nonetheless, a few weeks later the moaning noise came up again after cold starts and when parking or driving in slow traffic. I recently called the same Volvo service and told them about it and they scheduled an appointment in January.

Here below the list of the spare parts they claim to have replaced (according to codes):

• Radial oil seal, Differential x2
• slave clutch cylinder x1
• clutch kit x1
• brake fluid x1
• flywheel bolt x6
• DM flywheel x1
• transmission oil x2 lt

I'll keep you updated guys.
Cheers

 

Update: I just took back my car from Volvo service for the infamous bellowing clutch. They basically told me as follows:

• It's a common issue on the PSA D2 engines up to late 2014 models;
• We will replace the clutch again under warranty on the previous work;
• If you were to pay real money I would discourage you to replace the clutch as the noise will be probably come back;
• the clutch noise per se it's not a serious issue

So they will replace my clutch and whatnot on February, 3.

I'll let you know as soon as I have any noteworthy update on this issue.

Have a nice day fellas.

 

Ok guys, I got the car back from the service. Here follows the list (codes) of the spares replaced (under warranty, no money spent) and relative quantities. I'll keep my finger crossed and hope that the moaning noise won't come back anytime soon.

 

4 years on ... I'm curious, did the second fix work? My 2012 D2 has a similar issue.

 

I've got a sticky clutch pedal. T2 Diesel, 70k miles. Garage have replaced pedal spring (it did look slightly meatier). Still sticking about once in 20 presses instead of one in 10. What do people think the solution is, and how much do I need to be prepared to pay?

 

I have the same issue of sticking pedal down to the carpet, gear changes unavailable when engine working, car doesn't move anyway. With my hand, i release the pedal and make a movement with little gar changes, only to drive home.
Now i have the dealer check just booked to see what they find.
But it's certainly the common thing, cylinder, slave or master or whatever, or leaking, i don't know.
Monday it will go for the repair and then i update with the latest news.

 

Remove the return spring and see if the error persists. If the fault disappears, replace the springs in the return mechanism with a softer spring.
My own experience - after replacing the clutch cylinder and clutch, the problem remained. (1200.- cost) I replaced the spring (2.5.- cost) and the problem disappeared ...

 

I had master and slave cylinder changed and latter solved the sticking issue. Slave cyl. was full of friction particles from clutch.

 

Stesso problema. Bisogna sostituire la frizione?

 

Doe any know where i can find the part numbers for the clutch pedal springs