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Will do.
Been doing more reading about master and slave cylinders.
When I bought the car I found that the whole length of the drivers side underneath was covered in an like oil substance (was mentioned in the MOT history too) I couldn't find a leak, I had the car up on axle stands, wheels off, lights in at the back of the engine, even put my GoPro in there and couldn't see anything about a leak anywhere.
I had put it down to perhaps a leaking break fluid line or something had been spilled down there in the past, was quite odd. Now I'm beginning to wonder if this has anything to do with my clutch issue but it's on the opposite side to the the gearbox and like I said down the back of the engine is all clean... very odd.

View attachment 17241
Inner drive shaft seal needed replacing on my V40 under warranty, looked exactly like yours.
 
I've got a sticky clutch pedal. T2 Diesel, 70k miles. Garage have replaced pedal spring (it did look slightly meatier). Still sticking about once in 20 presses instead of one in 10. What do people think the solution is, and how much do I need to be prepared to pay?
 
I have the same issue of sticking pedal down to the carpet, gear changes unavailable when engine working, car doesn't move anyway. With my hand, i release the pedal and make a movement with little gar changes, only to drive home.
Now i have the dealer check just booked to see what they find.
But it's certainly the common thing, cylinder, slave or master or whatever, or leaking, i don't know.
Monday it will go for the repair and then i update with the latest news.
 
Remove the return spring and see if the error persists. If the fault disappears, replace the springs in the return mechanism with a softer spring.
My own experience - after replacing the clutch cylinder and clutch, the problem remained. (1200.- cost) I replaced the spring (2.5.- cost) and the problem disappeared ...
 
Remove the return spring and see if the error persists. If the fault disappears, replace the springs in the return mechanism with a softer spring.
My own experience - after replacing the clutch cylinder and clutch, the problem remained. (1200.- cost) I replaced the spring (2.5.- cost) and the problem disappeared ...
I had master and slave cylinder changed and latter solved the sticking issue. Slave cyl. was full of friction particles from clutch.
 
Hi,

I have a 2014 Volvo V40 D2, and I have the same issue with the clutch now for the 3rd time.
After switching the gear, the clutch stays down, it's only rising 2-3cm, so I can put my feet under it and kick back to the default position. This only happens during driving, when I park the car and push the clutch, there's no issue, it comes back perfectly.
Also I can't hear any noise, and I can put the gear easily.
When this issue pop up first time, I only changed the brake oil, and it was fine for 3-4 months. The second time we changed the master cylinder and the bowdens, but this time it was fine for only 1 month.
Do you have any idea what can be the issue?

Thanks for your help!
Doe any know where i can find the part numbers for the clutch pedal springs
 
Ok guys, I got the car back from the service. Here follows the list (codes) of the spares replaced (under warranty, no money spent) and relative quantities. I'll keep my finger crossed and hope that the moaning noise won't come back anytime soon.

4 years on ... I'm curious, did the second fix work? My 2012 D2 has a similar issue.
 
4 years on ... I'm curious, did the second fix work? My 2012 D2 has a similar issue.
the dealer couldnt fix mine, the oh so helpful customer service team said there were no further technical bulletins or upgrades available, and gave me 750 quid to spend on service and accessories
the better news, they sold it again through the select program and the MOT history shows its still going at over 105K
(im sad and sometimes check my old cars)
 
Since you're asking, after 50k km the clutch noise is now back again. I'll probably try to get the problem solved under the Volvo Genuine Parts Extended Warranty
Oh dear. Hope you have some luck with the warranty.

I wonder if its due to a fluid leak (I think VeeForty mentioned this)? That would fit with the noise being worse on a cold start, then improving as the fluid wears off/burns off. The trouble is it could be brake fluid, engine oil, or gearbox oil.

Mine has signs of a slight leak under the bell housing, I think, which I ought to check out at some point.
 
Oh dear. Hope you have some luck with the warranty.

I wonder if its due to a fluid leak (I think VeeForty mentioned this)? That would fit with the noise being worse on a cold start, then improving as the fluid wears off/burns off. The trouble is it could be brake fluid, engine oil, or gearbox oil.

Mine has signs of a slight leak under the bell housing, I think, which I ought to check out at some point.
Thanks mate.
I'll check for leaks during the next oil change (April...).

I've heard that there are aftermarket conversions kit you can fit, from DMF to SMF (dual to solid/single mass flywheel). Did anybody try it?
 
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